by Lauren Fix, The Car Coach®
Do you have a fluid leak under your car or truck? Here’s a simple way to be your own private investigator. If you’re not sure whether you are losing oil, transmission fluid, coolant or brake fluid, here is a simple, but effective method for finding who or what caused it!
Place an old sheet or large piece of white cardboard under the vehicle overnight. In the morning you will have your answer. Each fluid is a different color to help you diagnose the answers.
If the leaks have the following color, you have a good indication of what fluid you are leaking.
Bright Green: radiator coolant, this is also very slippery to the touch.
Light or Dark Brown: if you change the oil often it will be a light brown, if not the fluid will be a darker brown. Make sure to change your engine oil every 3-5000 miles.
Bright Blue: windshield washer fluid. (Winter washer fluids can be orange, pink or yellow).
Light Brown: if there is also a strong odor of rotten eggs, this is 90 weight or gear lube. It may be leaking from the rear axle center section or the manual transmission.
Red Fluid: Automatic transmission fluid or power steering fluid. Note where the fluid is coming from – it could be long life coolant
Clear: Power steering fluid or water from the condenser on the A/C unit.
Light Yellow: Brake fluid is light yellow when new as it absorbs water the fluid becomes a dark muddy brown. Brake fluid absorbs 2% water over a one year period under normal braking conditions. This is a very important fluid and should be changed every other year.
Amber: Gasoline, but there will be a distinct odor.
The location of the leak could also be a dead giveaway. Being a good sleuth make it obvious to conclude that there will not likely be an anti-freeze leak in the back of the vehicle.
The government tints fluids different colors for safety reasons. This will assist you during maintenance schedules too.
Keep a sharp eye on your vehicle; leaks can be frustrating and even dangerous. If you’re unsure go to a professional certified mechanic and ask for help. Even James Bond will ask for help at times.
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Now you can find where the fluids under your car come from. You can now determine the next step you should do. This is great! you're a true mechanic now!
Resource of Free Car Repair Guide Manila
Showing posts with label free car repair. Show all posts
Showing posts with label free car repair. Show all posts
Saturday, September 12, 2009
Thursday, September 10, 2009
Repair a Dent in Your Car
By B. E. Conrad
There are few things that can ruin the good looks of a car quite as fast as an unexpected dent or ding. Whether the dent originated from a runaway shopping cart at the supermarket or from a careless driver on the freeway, having a dented car is certainly no fun, and repairing those dents at the local body shop can be very expensive indeed.
Fortunately for drivers with dented cars and dented wallets, there are some methods you can use to remove those inevitable dents, dings and scrapes with little out of pocket costs. While not all dents and dings will respond to the do-it-yourself approach, it is certainly worth a try, and it may end up saving you a great deal of money.
There are a number of things you will need in order to attempt these do-it-yourself dent repairs. There are a number of dent repair kits on the market, and many of these kits include everything you need to remove and repair small dents quickly and easily. Many of these kits use suction cups and similar implements, and thus have the advantage of eliminating the need to drill holes in the finish to remove a dent.
Before getting started, be sure to borrow or purchase a dent pulling kit or dent pulling tool, along with a dolly, which is a specially designed tool made for flattening and reshaping metal. A metalworking hammer will be necessary as well.
The steps needed to complete the dent reapir are as follows:
1. Locate the center of the dent, and drill a hole in the dent with a 1/8" drill bit. Alternatively, you can use a hot glue gun to glue a plastic adapter to the center of the dent. These plastic adapters and glue guns are included in many dent removal kits.
2. Thread the dent pulling tool into the newly dilled hole, or attach the dent pulling tool to the plastic circle that is glued on the dent. After the dent pulling tool is in palce, pull on it to flatten the dent or pull it out.
3. Carefully hammer the front of the dent using the metalworking hammer, while at the same time holding the dolly firmly against the back of the dent. It may be necessary to go underneath the car, or to open the trunk or hood of the car, in order to reach the back of the dent.
4. Use a medium grit disk mounted on a drill to grind the paint down to the bare metal, extending the area out at least one inch around the dent itself. Then fill the entire area with a good quality body filler.
5. Allow the body filler to dry completely, then carefully sand the area with sandpaper which has been wrapped around a block of wood. When sanding, begin with a 36-grit sandpaper and work up to a 120-grit sandpaper.
6. Use a spray primer to prime the area, being sure to use a primer specially designed for automotive use. Six coats of primer should be used, allowing each coat of primer to dry completely before applying the next coat.
7. Sand the primer using a 600-grit wet and dry sandpaper. This will help to remove any scratches. The area should then be touched up with a matching automotive paint. If the paint is not smooth, resand and repaint the area until you have a smooth surface.
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It's not that hard! You can do it by yourself and the good news about it is you save your money. Isn't it great. Learning to fix your own car is easy. You can fix the dent in your car now.
Resource of Free Car Repair Guide Manila
There are few things that can ruin the good looks of a car quite as fast as an unexpected dent or ding. Whether the dent originated from a runaway shopping cart at the supermarket or from a careless driver on the freeway, having a dented car is certainly no fun, and repairing those dents at the local body shop can be very expensive indeed.
Fortunately for drivers with dented cars and dented wallets, there are some methods you can use to remove those inevitable dents, dings and scrapes with little out of pocket costs. While not all dents and dings will respond to the do-it-yourself approach, it is certainly worth a try, and it may end up saving you a great deal of money.
There are a number of things you will need in order to attempt these do-it-yourself dent repairs. There are a number of dent repair kits on the market, and many of these kits include everything you need to remove and repair small dents quickly and easily. Many of these kits use suction cups and similar implements, and thus have the advantage of eliminating the need to drill holes in the finish to remove a dent.
Before getting started, be sure to borrow or purchase a dent pulling kit or dent pulling tool, along with a dolly, which is a specially designed tool made for flattening and reshaping metal. A metalworking hammer will be necessary as well.
The steps needed to complete the dent reapir are as follows:
1. Locate the center of the dent, and drill a hole in the dent with a 1/8" drill bit. Alternatively, you can use a hot glue gun to glue a plastic adapter to the center of the dent. These plastic adapters and glue guns are included in many dent removal kits.
2. Thread the dent pulling tool into the newly dilled hole, or attach the dent pulling tool to the plastic circle that is glued on the dent. After the dent pulling tool is in palce, pull on it to flatten the dent or pull it out.
3. Carefully hammer the front of the dent using the metalworking hammer, while at the same time holding the dolly firmly against the back of the dent. It may be necessary to go underneath the car, or to open the trunk or hood of the car, in order to reach the back of the dent.
4. Use a medium grit disk mounted on a drill to grind the paint down to the bare metal, extending the area out at least one inch around the dent itself. Then fill the entire area with a good quality body filler.
5. Allow the body filler to dry completely, then carefully sand the area with sandpaper which has been wrapped around a block of wood. When sanding, begin with a 36-grit sandpaper and work up to a 120-grit sandpaper.
6. Use a spray primer to prime the area, being sure to use a primer specially designed for automotive use. Six coats of primer should be used, allowing each coat of primer to dry completely before applying the next coat.
7. Sand the primer using a 600-grit wet and dry sandpaper. This will help to remove any scratches. The area should then be touched up with a matching automotive paint. If the paint is not smooth, resand and repaint the area until you have a smooth surface.
--------
It's not that hard! You can do it by yourself and the good news about it is you save your money. Isn't it great. Learning to fix your own car is easy. You can fix the dent in your car now.
Resource of Free Car Repair Guide Manila
Tuesday, September 8, 2009
Should You Fix It Yourself?
Don't be afraid to tackle repairs, but know your limitations.
By Matthew Wright, About.com
Let's get something on the table. This About.com Guide Site is all about Automotive Empowerment, which means that we are here to help you repair and maintain your car to the best of your abilities. A 5-minute read can prepare you to change your own air filter, but it will take a little more experience to tackle a clutch replacement. Our motto is "You Can Do It!" Knowing exactly when you can do it is key to your success as an empowered auto owner.
So how do you know when you're ready to tackle a specific repair? Nobody knows better than you do. Ask yourself a few questions:
* Are you familiar with all of the necessary tools for the job?
* Do you have enough available time to complete the repair?
* If the repair requires another person, do you have somebody who will help you out?
As long as you're realistic, you can tackle any repair or maintenance job you set out to make. Knowing your limitations, however, will keep you out of trouble. There is no worse feeling than seeing the sun set on a Sunday evening while your car lies in pieces in the driveway, knowing that you have to figure out how to get to work Monday morning. As you step off the bus in front of the office, the mail clerk will be laughing as he blows by in his lowered Civic. Sure, you're his boss, but he's laughing extra hard on the inside.
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Yes, That's very true! Know your limitations to avoid huge expenses in repairing your car and to avoid making it worse. You should know what you are doing. If you're familiar with it do it, and if not you can seek help then learn how to do it, so, next time when it happened again you can do it on your own.
Resources on Free Car Repair Guide Manila
By Matthew Wright, About.com
Let's get something on the table. This About.com Guide Site is all about Automotive Empowerment, which means that we are here to help you repair and maintain your car to the best of your abilities. A 5-minute read can prepare you to change your own air filter, but it will take a little more experience to tackle a clutch replacement. Our motto is "You Can Do It!" Knowing exactly when you can do it is key to your success as an empowered auto owner.
So how do you know when you're ready to tackle a specific repair? Nobody knows better than you do. Ask yourself a few questions:
* Are you familiar with all of the necessary tools for the job?
* Do you have enough available time to complete the repair?
* If the repair requires another person, do you have somebody who will help you out?
As long as you're realistic, you can tackle any repair or maintenance job you set out to make. Knowing your limitations, however, will keep you out of trouble. There is no worse feeling than seeing the sun set on a Sunday evening while your car lies in pieces in the driveway, knowing that you have to figure out how to get to work Monday morning. As you step off the bus in front of the office, the mail clerk will be laughing as he blows by in his lowered Civic. Sure, you're his boss, but he's laughing extra hard on the inside.
--------
Yes, That's very true! Know your limitations to avoid huge expenses in repairing your car and to avoid making it worse. You should know what you are doing. If you're familiar with it do it, and if not you can seek help then learn how to do it, so, next time when it happened again you can do it on your own.
Resources on Free Car Repair Guide Manila
Sunday, September 6, 2009
How To Replace Your Turn Signal Relay
By Matthew Wright, About.com
Is Your Turn Signal Relay Bad, and Does It Need Replacing?
"Keep Your Signals Blinking"
Turn Signals Are An Important Safety Feature
Turn signals are one of the easiest systems in your car to troubleshoot, well usually they are. Your signal flashers either work or they don't. It's kind of like being pregnant - there's no such thing as "sort of." Troubleshooting your turn signals isn't tough. If your turn signals have stopped working, it'll be doing one of these things: blinking rapidly, coming on without blinking, or nothing at all. The good news is that all of these symptoms point to two possible issues, a bad turn signal relay or a dead bulb. If the signal blinks really fast, you have a bulb out on that side. If it doesn't come on at all, or doesn't blink, you'll need to replace your turn signal relay. Your turn signal relay is easy to replace, and they are almost never expensive.
If your turn signals aren't doing the job, and you're ready to replace your turn signal relay, read on.
*Some vehicles have separate flasher relays for turn signals and hazard lights. Be sure to check both systems while you're thinking about signal relays. Hazard lights can be very important.
Replacing the Turn Signal Relay
"Your flasher relay is easily accessible."
Carefully remo
ve and replace the turn signal relay.
photo by Matt Wright, 2007
If you've determined that you need to replace your turn signal relay, you're in luck -- it's easy! In fact, it's one of the easiest repair you'll ever do.
1. Locate your relay cluster. You can find this in your car's owner's manual.
2. Locate the turn signal relay. This should also be in your owner's manual. If it's not, you can consult a service manual for your car.
3. Once you can see your relays, remove the old turn signal flasher relay and replace it with the new one. Don't worry about installing it incorrectly, it will only go in one way, the right way.
That's it! You're back to blinking, and back to being a safe car on the road.
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Oh! It's easy. You can repair your own car signals in just minutes. Now you can be safe driving espeacially at night. Drive Safely!
Resources of Free Car Repair Guide Manila
Is Your Turn Signal Relay Bad, and Does It Need Replacing?
"Keep Your Signals Blinking"
Turn Signals Are An Important Safety Feature
Turn signals are one of the easiest systems in your car to troubleshoot, well usually they are. Your signal flashers either work or they don't. It's kind of like being pregnant - there's no such thing as "sort of." Troubleshooting your turn signals isn't tough. If your turn signals have stopped working, it'll be doing one of these things: blinking rapidly, coming on without blinking, or nothing at all. The good news is that all of these symptoms point to two possible issues, a bad turn signal relay or a dead bulb. If the signal blinks really fast, you have a bulb out on that side. If it doesn't come on at all, or doesn't blink, you'll need to replace your turn signal relay. Your turn signal relay is easy to replace, and they are almost never expensive.
If your turn signals aren't doing the job, and you're ready to replace your turn signal relay, read on.
*Some vehicles have separate flasher relays for turn signals and hazard lights. Be sure to check both systems while you're thinking about signal relays. Hazard lights can be very important.
Replacing the Turn Signal Relay
"Your flasher relay is easily accessible."
Carefully remo
ve and replace the turn signal relay.photo by Matt Wright, 2007
If you've determined that you need to replace your turn signal relay, you're in luck -- it's easy! In fact, it's one of the easiest repair you'll ever do.
1. Locate your relay cluster. You can find this in your car's owner's manual.
2. Locate the turn signal relay. This should also be in your owner's manual. If it's not, you can consult a service manual for your car.
3. Once you can see your relays, remove the old turn signal flasher relay and replace it with the new one. Don't worry about installing it incorrectly, it will only go in one way, the right way.
That's it! You're back to blinking, and back to being a safe car on the road.
--------
Oh! It's easy. You can repair your own car signals in just minutes. Now you can be safe driving espeacially at night. Drive Safely!
Resources of Free Car Repair Guide Manila
Friday, September 4, 2009
My engine has an electric cooling fan. But the fan doesn't run all the time. Is that normal?
Yes. The cooling fan is only needed when engine temperature rises above a predetermined level -- or when there is an increased load placed on the cooling system (as when running your air conditioner). The rest of the time, running the fan would be a waste of electrical energy so it is turned off.
Electric cooling fans are found on most front-wheel drive vehicles with transverse mounted engines as well as many late model rear-wheel drive vehicles. Electric fans are used on FWD cars because the fan doesn't require a belt drive and can be mounted independent of the engine's location. What's more, electric fans require less power to operate (for improved fuel economy and performance), they're quieter, and they allow more precise control over cooling.
By comparison, a mechanical belt-driven fan can require anywhere from 5 to 15 horsepower depending on engine speed and the size of the fan. Even with a fan clutch to reduce the drag at higher speeds, it's still a lot of wasted power.
Fan Operation
At highway speeds, there is usually enough airflow through the radiator that a fan isn't needed. So the fan usually only operates when the vehicle is sitting in traffic or driving at slower speeds.
On older applications, the electric fan is controlled by a temperature switch located in the radiator or engine. When the temperature of the coolant exceeds the switch's rating (typically 195 to 235 degrees F), the switch closes and energizes a relay that supplies voltage to run the fan. The fan then continues to run until the coolant temperature drops back below the opening point of the switch. Most electric fans are also wired to come on when the A/C is on. Many vehicles also have a separate fan for the A/C condenser (dual fan systems). One or both fans come on when the A/C is on.
In newer vehicles with computerized engine controls, fan operation is regulated by the engine control module. Input from the coolant sensor, and in many cases the vehicle speed sensor too, is used to determine when the fan needs to be on.
CAUTION: Many electric fans are wired to come on anytime the engine is above a certain temperature, regardless of whether the engine is running or not. This means the fan may come on after the engine has been shut off. So keep your fingers away from the fan at all times unless the battery or fan motor wires have been disconnected.
Checking The Fan
Four things can prevent a fan from coming on when it should: a bad temperature switch or coolant sensor (or problem in the switch or sensor wiring circuit); a bad fan relay; a wiring problem (blown fuse, loose or corroded connector, shorts, opens, etc.); or a failure of the fan motor itself. Only the latter would require replacing the fan motor.
One way to check the operation of the fan motor is to jump it directly to the battery. If it spins, the motor is good, and the problem is elsewhere in the wiring or control circuit. Another check is to test for voltage with a voltmeter or test light at the fan's wiring connector. There should be voltage when the engine is hot and when the A/C is on.
--------
There are things you can do by yourself especially in repairing your car. You can save money by learning how to check and fix your car all by yourself. Follow the instructions in this car repair guide and you'll learn more.
Resources of Car Repair Guide Manila
Electric cooling fans are found on most front-wheel drive vehicles with transverse mounted engines as well as many late model rear-wheel drive vehicles. Electric fans are used on FWD cars because the fan doesn't require a belt drive and can be mounted independent of the engine's location. What's more, electric fans require less power to operate (for improved fuel economy and performance), they're quieter, and they allow more precise control over cooling.
By comparison, a mechanical belt-driven fan can require anywhere from 5 to 15 horsepower depending on engine speed and the size of the fan. Even with a fan clutch to reduce the drag at higher speeds, it's still a lot of wasted power.
Fan Operation
At highway speeds, there is usually enough airflow through the radiator that a fan isn't needed. So the fan usually only operates when the vehicle is sitting in traffic or driving at slower speeds.
On older applications, the electric fan is controlled by a temperature switch located in the radiator or engine. When the temperature of the coolant exceeds the switch's rating (typically 195 to 235 degrees F), the switch closes and energizes a relay that supplies voltage to run the fan. The fan then continues to run until the coolant temperature drops back below the opening point of the switch. Most electric fans are also wired to come on when the A/C is on. Many vehicles also have a separate fan for the A/C condenser (dual fan systems). One or both fans come on when the A/C is on.
In newer vehicles with computerized engine controls, fan operation is regulated by the engine control module. Input from the coolant sensor, and in many cases the vehicle speed sensor too, is used to determine when the fan needs to be on.
CAUTION: Many electric fans are wired to come on anytime the engine is above a certain temperature, regardless of whether the engine is running or not. This means the fan may come on after the engine has been shut off. So keep your fingers away from the fan at all times unless the battery or fan motor wires have been disconnected.
Checking The Fan
Four things can prevent a fan from coming on when it should: a bad temperature switch or coolant sensor (or problem in the switch or sensor wiring circuit); a bad fan relay; a wiring problem (blown fuse, loose or corroded connector, shorts, opens, etc.); or a failure of the fan motor itself. Only the latter would require replacing the fan motor.
One way to check the operation of the fan motor is to jump it directly to the battery. If it spins, the motor is good, and the problem is elsewhere in the wiring or control circuit. Another check is to test for voltage with a voltmeter or test light at the fan's wiring connector. There should be voltage when the engine is hot and when the A/C is on.
--------
There are things you can do by yourself especially in repairing your car. You can save money by learning how to check and fix your car all by yourself. Follow the instructions in this car repair guide and you'll learn more.
Resources of Car Repair Guide Manila
Saturday, August 29, 2009
Do-It-Yourself Mechanic: The Gas Thief
The gas thief can be disguised in several ways and can strike in more than one way simultaneously.
Some of the common 'thieves' are under-inflated tires, dirty air cleaners, and forgetting tune up intervals.
Check your owner's manual or if you have misplaced or lost the owner's manual, look at the manufacturer's stickers on the door, under the hood or in the trunk of the car. Usually the manufacturer's recommended tire pressures can be found in more than one place. Following the manufacturer's recommendations will help optimize your fuel economy and tire life. Under-inflated tires increase the rolling resistance and reduces gas mileage.
The air filter is one of the most overlooked items in auto maintenance. We remember to change the oil but if the auto shop forgets to remind us to check/change the air filter, it goes unnoticed. Dirty air cleaners will cause the engine to run 'rich' and increase pollution as well as decreasing fuel efficiency.
The tune-up is often forgotten until your vehicle starts performing poorly, starts missing, or becomes hard to start. When these noticeable symptoms occur, your engine is well past the manufacturer's recommended tune-up time. Check your owner's manual! It will give recommended service intervals for all your vehicles components. This is only an educated recommendation based on 'average' usage. Consult your mechanic. He knows your vehicle and you. He will recommend service based on your vehicle's use and driving habits. Heed his advice.
The fuel system can rob you too. One of the easiest ways to maintain your fuel system is to add a fuel system cleaner to your gas tank when you have your oil changed. There are several good brands of fuel additives available. Follow the additive manufacturer's instructions as to the amount to add for your fuel tank's capacity. This will help keep deposits from building up in your carburettor/fuel injection system and keep your engine running happy.
--------
These simple car repair guide will help you to do-it-yourself in fixing your own car as well as saving your money at the same time. Always remember, know what you are doing! To avoid larger trouble in you car.
Resources of Free Car Repair Guide Manila
Some of the common 'thieves' are under-inflated tires, dirty air cleaners, and forgetting tune up intervals.
Check your owner's manual or if you have misplaced or lost the owner's manual, look at the manufacturer's stickers on the door, under the hood or in the trunk of the car. Usually the manufacturer's recommended tire pressures can be found in more than one place. Following the manufacturer's recommendations will help optimize your fuel economy and tire life. Under-inflated tires increase the rolling resistance and reduces gas mileage.
The air filter is one of the most overlooked items in auto maintenance. We remember to change the oil but if the auto shop forgets to remind us to check/change the air filter, it goes unnoticed. Dirty air cleaners will cause the engine to run 'rich' and increase pollution as well as decreasing fuel efficiency.
The tune-up is often forgotten until your vehicle starts performing poorly, starts missing, or becomes hard to start. When these noticeable symptoms occur, your engine is well past the manufacturer's recommended tune-up time. Check your owner's manual! It will give recommended service intervals for all your vehicles components. This is only an educated recommendation based on 'average' usage. Consult your mechanic. He knows your vehicle and you. He will recommend service based on your vehicle's use and driving habits. Heed his advice.
The fuel system can rob you too. One of the easiest ways to maintain your fuel system is to add a fuel system cleaner to your gas tank when you have your oil changed. There are several good brands of fuel additives available. Follow the additive manufacturer's instructions as to the amount to add for your fuel tank's capacity. This will help keep deposits from building up in your carburettor/fuel injection system and keep your engine running happy.
--------
These simple car repair guide will help you to do-it-yourself in fixing your own car as well as saving your money at the same time. Always remember, know what you are doing! To avoid larger trouble in you car.
Resources of Free Car Repair Guide Manila
Tuesday, August 25, 2009
Testing an Ignition Coil on the Car
By Matthew Wright, About.com
Remove the plug and put it back in the wire.
photo by Matt Wright, 2008
Safety Tip:Working around a running engine can be dangerous. Be sure to keep yourself (including hair and clothing) away from any moving engine parts.
Testing a coil on the car is pretty easy. No special tools are required. Just remember to be careful, the amount of electricity generated by your ignition system can be dangerous.
If your coil is already off the car, or if you would like a more specific data-driven test, you can bench test your coil. To set up the test, remove one spark plug wire from its plug, then remove the spark plug using a spark plug socket. Next put the spark plug back into the spark plug wire. Be careful not to let anything drop into the empty spark plug hole -- very bad.
Test the Coil for Spark
"This test shows a good coil."
If you see a spark, the coil is doing its job.
photo by Matt Wright, 2008
Holding the plug wire with insulated pliers, find a spot on the engine that is a good and easily accessible grounding point. Pretty much any exposed metal, including the engine itself, will do.
Holding the spark plug wire with your pliers, touch the threaded portion of the spark plug to the grounding point. Have somebody crank the engine with the key, and look for a bright blue spark to jump across the spark plug gap. If you see a nice, bright spark (clearly visible in daylight) your coil is doing its job.
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May this testing your ignition coil on the car tips help you in fixing your car all by yourself. Just follow this instructions and you'll save money.
More on Free Car Repair Guide Manila Click Here
Remove the plug and put it back in the wire.photo by Matt Wright, 2008
Safety Tip:Working around a running engine can be dangerous. Be sure to keep yourself (including hair and clothing) away from any moving engine parts.
Testing a coil on the car is pretty easy. No special tools are required. Just remember to be careful, the amount of electricity generated by your ignition system can be dangerous.
If your coil is already off the car, or if you would like a more specific data-driven test, you can bench test your coil. To set up the test, remove one spark plug wire from its plug, then remove the spark plug using a spark plug socket. Next put the spark plug back into the spark plug wire. Be careful not to let anything drop into the empty spark plug hole -- very bad.
Test the Coil for Spark
"This test shows a good coil."
If you see a spark, the coil is doing its job.photo by Matt Wright, 2008
Holding the plug wire with insulated pliers, find a spot on the engine that is a good and easily accessible grounding point. Pretty much any exposed metal, including the engine itself, will do.
Holding the spark plug wire with your pliers, touch the threaded portion of the spark plug to the grounding point. Have somebody crank the engine with the key, and look for a bright blue spark to jump across the spark plug gap. If you see a nice, bright spark (clearly visible in daylight) your coil is doing its job.
--------
May this testing your ignition coil on the car tips help you in fixing your car all by yourself. Just follow this instructions and you'll save money.
More on Free Car Repair Guide Manila Click Here
Thursday, August 20, 2009
How to jump start a car
Sometimes your battery gives up. At other times the charging system just fails, in which case you're out of luck.
But more likely, you simply parked the car and forgot to turn off the lights, draining whatever power your battery has stored up for the trip home.
Hey, it happens.
When it does, a good pair of heavy guage jumper cables stored in the trunk becomes a lifeline to getting back up to speed, either for yourself or for a fellow-traveler who's stuck on the side of the road with a dead battery.
Safety first
Before you try jump starting a car, think safety:
* Attempting to jump start a damaged battery can result in serious injury from possible acid explosion or resulting fireworks. If the battery casing is cracked or bulging slowly back away from the vehicle and call a tow truck.
* Another possible bad science experiment is when "hot jumper cable meets FROZEN car battery". In cold weather, it's a disaster waiting to happen.
* For these and other reasons, never lean directly over the battery while connecting the cables, and wear goggles if you have them.
* Never smoke or allow sparks or flames near a car battery.
How to jump start a car
* With both cars turned off, position them front-to-front or parallel, and open both hoods.
* Identify the positive and negative terminals on each battery and connect one RED clamp from the jumper cables to the POSTIVE (+) terminal on the dead battery.
* Now connect the other RED clamp to the POSTIVE (+) terminal on the live battery.
* Connect one BLACK clamp to the NEGATIVE (-) terminal on the live battery.
* Now connect the other BLACK clamp to a ground somewhere on the engine block away from any moving parts. DO NOT CONNECT THE SECOND NEGATIVE CABLE TO THE SECOND NEGATIVE TERMINAL of the dead battery unless you want to see flying sparks.
* Attempt to start the disabled car. If it doesn't, start the engine on the live car and allow the battery in the disabled car to charge for a few minutes.
* Try starting the disabled car again. Once the car starts, disconnect the jumper cables in the exact reverse order, being careful not to touch the clamps to each other or anything else on the cars.
* Allow the jumped car to idle for 15-30 minutes to allow the battery to charge completely before getting back on the road.
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Just follow these steps and you can definitely jump-start your car by yourself. Car repair guide is an easy way to fix your own car. So continue reading this guides.
More on Car Repair Guide Click Here
But more likely, you simply parked the car and forgot to turn off the lights, draining whatever power your battery has stored up for the trip home.
Hey, it happens.
When it does, a good pair of heavy guage jumper cables stored in the trunk becomes a lifeline to getting back up to speed, either for yourself or for a fellow-traveler who's stuck on the side of the road with a dead battery.
Safety first
Before you try jump starting a car, think safety:
* Attempting to jump start a damaged battery can result in serious injury from possible acid explosion or resulting fireworks. If the battery casing is cracked or bulging slowly back away from the vehicle and call a tow truck.
* Another possible bad science experiment is when "hot jumper cable meets FROZEN car battery". In cold weather, it's a disaster waiting to happen.
* For these and other reasons, never lean directly over the battery while connecting the cables, and wear goggles if you have them.
* Never smoke or allow sparks or flames near a car battery.
How to jump start a car
* With both cars turned off, position them front-to-front or parallel, and open both hoods.
* Identify the positive and negative terminals on each battery and connect one RED clamp from the jumper cables to the POSTIVE (+) terminal on the dead battery.
* Now connect the other RED clamp to the POSTIVE (+) terminal on the live battery.
* Connect one BLACK clamp to the NEGATIVE (-) terminal on the live battery.
* Now connect the other BLACK clamp to a ground somewhere on the engine block away from any moving parts. DO NOT CONNECT THE SECOND NEGATIVE CABLE TO THE SECOND NEGATIVE TERMINAL of the dead battery unless you want to see flying sparks.
* Attempt to start the disabled car. If it doesn't, start the engine on the live car and allow the battery in the disabled car to charge for a few minutes.
* Try starting the disabled car again. Once the car starts, disconnect the jumper cables in the exact reverse order, being careful not to touch the clamps to each other or anything else on the cars.
* Allow the jumped car to idle for 15-30 minutes to allow the battery to charge completely before getting back on the road.
--------
Just follow these steps and you can definitely jump-start your car by yourself. Car repair guide is an easy way to fix your own car. So continue reading this guides.
More on Car Repair Guide Click Here
Monday, August 17, 2009
How to change a flat tire
Most motorists will have face a flat tire at least once in their lives. So becoming familiar with the tools and methods on how to change a flat tire is worth the time and effort to avoid becoming stranded, or relying on an emergency vehicle.
Just like being prepared for changing a broken headlight, knowing how to change a flat tire on some dark and stormy night is a very useful do-it-yourself survival skill for any car owner to have.
Here's how:
How to change a flat tire
* Turn on your hazard lights and slowly pull off the road. Find the most level surface possible, avoiding soft areas or inclines. If you have them in the trunk, place flares or traffic cones in front and back of the car to alert other motorists that you're in distress.
* Put car in "Park" and your emergency brake on, or a put standard transmission car in gear. If possible, place a wheel chock or any heavy object (a brick or rock) in the diagonally opposing wheel to prevent the car from moving.
* Take out the spare tire, tire iron and the jack from the trunk. Remove the hub cap and use the tire iron to begin loosening the lug nuts. This will almost certainly require a bit of strength! If necessary, stomp down on the tire iron with your foot to release the lug's grip. Just make sure you're stomping in a counterclockwise position. Go ahead and loosen all the lug nuts, but do not remove the them just yet.
* Next, place the jack under a safe jacking point (consult your owner's manual) under the frame near the tire that you are going to change. Jack up the car just enough so that the tire is off the ground, then remove the lugs with the tire iron or by hand. Set the flat tire aside, and be sure to place lugs in your pocket so they don't get lost.
* Place the spare tire on the hub, and align the tire with the wheel studs. Once in place, screw each of the lug nuts back on by hand, then finish tightening using the tire iron.
* With the spare tire now securely in place, slowly lower the jack and pull it away from under the car.
* With the car now firmly on the ground, tighten the lugs again as much as possible. Replace the hub cap, and you're on your way.
* Since some spare tires are only made for emergencies, most manufacturers don't recommend driving on one for more than 50 miles. As soon as possible, get to the nearest service station to get your flat tire patched or replaced.
--------
Now you have an idea to replace your tire. Isn't it easy! These free car repair guide will help you manage and fix your own car and save money at the same time. Continue reading to learn more guides on how to repair your car.
More on Free Car Repair Guide Manila Click Here
Just like being prepared for changing a broken headlight, knowing how to change a flat tire on some dark and stormy night is a very useful do-it-yourself survival skill for any car owner to have.
Here's how:
How to change a flat tire
* Turn on your hazard lights and slowly pull off the road. Find the most level surface possible, avoiding soft areas or inclines. If you have them in the trunk, place flares or traffic cones in front and back of the car to alert other motorists that you're in distress.
* Put car in "Park" and your emergency brake on, or a put standard transmission car in gear. If possible, place a wheel chock or any heavy object (a brick or rock) in the diagonally opposing wheel to prevent the car from moving.
* Take out the spare tire, tire iron and the jack from the trunk. Remove the hub cap and use the tire iron to begin loosening the lug nuts. This will almost certainly require a bit of strength! If necessary, stomp down on the tire iron with your foot to release the lug's grip. Just make sure you're stomping in a counterclockwise position. Go ahead and loosen all the lug nuts, but do not remove the them just yet.
* Next, place the jack under a safe jacking point (consult your owner's manual) under the frame near the tire that you are going to change. Jack up the car just enough so that the tire is off the ground, then remove the lugs with the tire iron or by hand. Set the flat tire aside, and be sure to place lugs in your pocket so they don't get lost.
* Place the spare tire on the hub, and align the tire with the wheel studs. Once in place, screw each of the lug nuts back on by hand, then finish tightening using the tire iron.
* With the spare tire now securely in place, slowly lower the jack and pull it away from under the car.
* With the car now firmly on the ground, tighten the lugs again as much as possible. Replace the hub cap, and you're on your way.
* Since some spare tires are only made for emergencies, most manufacturers don't recommend driving on one for more than 50 miles. As soon as possible, get to the nearest service station to get your flat tire patched or replaced.
--------
Now you have an idea to replace your tire. Isn't it easy! These free car repair guide will help you manage and fix your own car and save money at the same time. Continue reading to learn more guides on how to repair your car.
More on Free Car Repair Guide Manila Click Here
Wednesday, August 12, 2009
Preparing For Your Oil Change "Oil change stuff."
http://www.royalpurple.com/breakin-oil.html
Gather what you'll need for your oil change.
photo mw
Never change your oil while the engine is hot! Let it cool for a few hours, oil can burn you badly.
Be sure you have a safe area to do your oil change. Level, solid ground is a must so that you can safely jack up your car. I also like to put something on the driveway or garage floor underneath the engine in case you spill. Cardboard or a piece of plywood are great for this.
Before you even start to do your oil change, be sure you have everything you need to get the job done.
What You'll Need
* Ratchet or open end wrench
* Oil filter wrench
* Oil catch/recycle container
* Funnel
* New oil filter
* New Oil
* Clean rag
Let's get to it.
Draining the Old Oil
"Loosen the oil drain plug."
The plug is at the bottom of the oil pan.
photo mw
The first step in an oil change is to get the old stuff out of there. The oil drains out of the oil pan at the very bottom of your engine. The oil is held in by a drain plug that looks like a big bolt at the bottom of the pan.
Catching the Oil For Recycling
"A proper container keeps things clean."
Let the drain plug drop onto the screen.
photo mw
Before you remove the oil drain plug, be sure that your recycling container is positioned underneath the oil drain. An oil change can be no fun if most of your time is spent cleaning up oil.
When you remove the drain plug, let it drop into the top of the recycling container. There's a screen on top that will keep it from dropping into the muck.
Let all of the oil drain out, then replace the drain plug, tightening it to your cars torque specifications (or "snug but not too hard" if you are sans torque wrench.)
Put the cap on the oil recycling container so you can drop it off at a location that accepts used oil -- most full service gas stations accept it.
Remove the Old Oil Filter
"Try not to spill the oil."
Remove the old oil filter carefully.
photo mw
Next you need to remove your old oil filter. Using an oil filter wrench, turn the filter counterclockwise until it's free. Be careful with it, it's still full of old oil that can spill and make a mess.
Some oil filters can be reached from the top, but for most you'll have to be under the car.
The New Oil Filter
"Prepare the oil filter."
Lubricate the gasket on the new filter.
photo mw
With the old oil out and the old filter out of the way, it's time to put the change in oil change. But before you install the new oil filter, you have to prep it.
Before you screw the new oil filter into place, lubricate the rubber gasket on the end of the filter with some new oil.
Next, fill the new oil filter with oil to about 2/3. It's ok if you go over that amount, it just means you might spill a bit when you screw it on.
Installing the New Oil Filter
"New oil filter."
Screw the new filter on tightly with your hand.
photo mw
Carefully screw the new oil filter into place. Remember, it has oil in it so don't forget to hold it upright. It screws on clockwise.
You don't need a wrench to install the new oil filter. Screw it on as tight as you can get it with one hand. Overtightening the oil filter can strip its threads and cause a leak. Of course, not tightening it enough can cause a leak. So screw it on as tight as it will go with one hand, but no more.
Refilling the Engine Oil
"Refilling the engine oil."
Use a funnel to refill the engine oil.
photo mw
Now you're ready to fill the engine with oil. Unscrew the oil fill cap and insert your funnel. I like to buy the 5-quart containers of oil (cheaper) but if you're using single quarts that's fine, too.
Check your owner's manual to find out how much oil your engine holds. Pour a little more than 3/4 that amount into the engine. For example, if your car holds 4 quarts of oil, add 3 1/2.
If you're using a 5-quart container of oil, there is a guide on the side that shows how much oil you've put in.
You're not finished yet so don't drive off.
Checking the Oil Level
"Fill, check, fill, check"
Check the oil and add as needed.
photo mw
We didn't add all the oil because there may still be a little oil here and there we didn't account for.
Check your oil and add more until you're at the right level.
Be sure to put your oil cap back on! Oil spray can cause a fire.
--------
Isn't it that easy! Now you can change your cars oil by yourself. Continue reading Free Car repair guide Manila for other tips..
More Car Repair Guide
Gather what you'll need for your oil change.
photo mw
Never change your oil while the engine is hot! Let it cool for a few hours, oil can burn you badly.
Be sure you have a safe area to do your oil change. Level, solid ground is a must so that you can safely jack up your car. I also like to put something on the driveway or garage floor underneath the engine in case you spill. Cardboard or a piece of plywood are great for this.
Before you even start to do your oil change, be sure you have everything you need to get the job done.
What You'll Need
* Ratchet or open end wrench
* Oil filter wrench
* Oil catch/recycle container
* Funnel
* New oil filter
* New Oil
* Clean rag
Let's get to it.
Draining the Old Oil
"Loosen the oil drain plug."
The plug is at the bottom of the oil pan.
photo mw
The first step in an oil change is to get the old stuff out of there. The oil drains out of the oil pan at the very bottom of your engine. The oil is held in by a drain plug that looks like a big bolt at the bottom of the pan.
Catching the Oil For Recycling
"A proper container keeps things clean."
Let the drain plug drop onto the screen.
photo mw
Before you remove the oil drain plug, be sure that your recycling container is positioned underneath the oil drain. An oil change can be no fun if most of your time is spent cleaning up oil.
When you remove the drain plug, let it drop into the top of the recycling container. There's a screen on top that will keep it from dropping into the muck.
Let all of the oil drain out, then replace the drain plug, tightening it to your cars torque specifications (or "snug but not too hard" if you are sans torque wrench.)
Put the cap on the oil recycling container so you can drop it off at a location that accepts used oil -- most full service gas stations accept it.
Remove the Old Oil Filter
"Try not to spill the oil."
Remove the old oil filter carefully.
photo mw
Next you need to remove your old oil filter. Using an oil filter wrench, turn the filter counterclockwise until it's free. Be careful with it, it's still full of old oil that can spill and make a mess.
Some oil filters can be reached from the top, but for most you'll have to be under the car.
The New Oil Filter
"Prepare the oil filter."
Lubricate the gasket on the new filter.
photo mw
With the old oil out and the old filter out of the way, it's time to put the change in oil change. But before you install the new oil filter, you have to prep it.
Before you screw the new oil filter into place, lubricate the rubber gasket on the end of the filter with some new oil.
Next, fill the new oil filter with oil to about 2/3. It's ok if you go over that amount, it just means you might spill a bit when you screw it on.
Installing the New Oil Filter
"New oil filter."
Screw the new filter on tightly with your hand.
photo mw
Carefully screw the new oil filter into place. Remember, it has oil in it so don't forget to hold it upright. It screws on clockwise.
You don't need a wrench to install the new oil filter. Screw it on as tight as you can get it with one hand. Overtightening the oil filter can strip its threads and cause a leak. Of course, not tightening it enough can cause a leak. So screw it on as tight as it will go with one hand, but no more.
Refilling the Engine Oil
"Refilling the engine oil."
Use a funnel to refill the engine oil.
photo mw
Now you're ready to fill the engine with oil. Unscrew the oil fill cap and insert your funnel. I like to buy the 5-quart containers of oil (cheaper) but if you're using single quarts that's fine, too.
Check your owner's manual to find out how much oil your engine holds. Pour a little more than 3/4 that amount into the engine. For example, if your car holds 4 quarts of oil, add 3 1/2.
If you're using a 5-quart container of oil, there is a guide on the side that shows how much oil you've put in.
You're not finished yet so don't drive off.
Checking the Oil Level
"Fill, check, fill, check"
Check the oil and add as needed.
photo mw
We didn't add all the oil because there may still be a little oil here and there we didn't account for.
Check your oil and add more until you're at the right level.
Be sure to put your oil cap back on! Oil spray can cause a fire.
--------
Isn't it that easy! Now you can change your cars oil by yourself. Continue reading Free Car repair guide Manila for other tips..
More Car Repair Guide
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