Windshield Chip Repair

Crack Down on Rock Divets

According to professional repairers, approximately 75 percent of damaged windshields can be repaired instead of replaced. This is encouraging news, especially when considering that any windshield damage that obstructs the driver's view is illegal.

For anyone whose windshield has doubled as a backstop for rocks and debris that fly off of flatbed trucks, prompt action is critical. Over time, grit accumulates in the windshield's damaged area, and temperature fluctuations can make the marred portion grow.

Do-it-yourself systems designed to fill windshield nicks are available from several companies. The two styles of kits are an inexpensive syringe (about $8) and a more professional-type bridge system (around $17).

In general, windshield-repair kits are recommended for crackless pits of up to an inch in diameter ‹ and they aren't intended for 3stars,2 3spiders2 or any type of cracks. Their actual resin repair compound is formulated to have the same refractive characteristics as OE laminated glass, the goal being to make the repair virtually undetectable.

The how-to photos here are of the syringe-type repair kit available at most auto parts stores. It's easy to use ‹ the one-component chemical doesn't require mixing or heat to cure, just sunlight. (However, the chemical does contain an acid that shouldn't contact skin, eyes or paint.)

Our demonstration windshield here had the right type of pit damage, but the carnage was more than a year old. The result is that the repair compound didn't adhere well. Regardless, this is a worthwhile endeavor: The job only takes a few minutes, and the kits can be purchased either at your local parts store or by mail order.




Step 1
Syringe-style repair kits (A) contain enough resin compound to fix one windshield chip. They mount to the glass with an adhesive disc and a plastic pedestal. Bridge-type kits (B) are more expensive but can be reused with resin refills.





Step 2
Clean the damaged area with glass cleaner, and allow it to dry completely. Then put a rag or towel below the damage to keep any spilled repair compound from contacting paint.






Step 3
For syringe-style repairs, punch out the hole in the adhesive disc, peel the backing off of one side of the disc and press it onto the glass. Center the damage in the disc's hole and point the disc's tab upward.





Step 4
Peel the backing off of the disc's top side and press on the pedestal, aligning the tabs at the top.







Step 5
Uncap the syringe and insert it in the pedestal, twisting till the syringe is firmly seated. Then pull the plunger upward to suck air from the damaged area, hold momentarily and let go to force the repair compound into the damage. Repeat the plunging process 10 times.




Step 6
The sun's ultraviolet rays cure the repair compound in approximately 30 minutes. Check from inside the vehicle for air bubbles and repeat the plunging sequence if necessary. To finish the job, remove the syringe, cut off the pedestal and disc with a blade and clean up any excess compound.



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Now you can fix the crack on your windshield by yourself. Follow the instructions above and you'll surely have satisfying results.

Source of Free Car Repair Guide Manila

How to Maintain and Repair The Sunroof of Your Car

Sometimes the sunroof of your car can get stuck and won’t open. This is due to rust and build up from over the years. So to solve that problem, just follow the steps below to continue.

Instructions

Step 1

Get a bottle of rubbing alcohol. Be careful not to sniff this product as it is toxic. It’s safe for your hands, so don’t worry about your hands.

Step 2

Soak a towel with the rubbing alcohol. Wipe down the rails of the sun roof. This is where all the rust and build up material is at. After you have done one side, do the other side.

Step 3

Get some white lithium grease and grease down the rails. Put enough to lubricate but not trickle.

Step 4

Open and close the sun roof a couple of times to work the grease in. It should now be very smooth. So that’s about it. Lube the rails often to keep the sun roof from sticking.



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Taking good care of your car is important to avoid serious damages. You can do it on your own. Sunroof should be well protected because water can get into your car. So, before it happens make sure you take good care of it.

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Fluid Investigator - 007

by Lauren Fix, The Car Coach®


Do you have a fluid leak under your car or truck? Here’s a simple way to be your own private investigator. If you’re not sure whether you are losing oil, transmission fluid, coolant or brake fluid, here is a simple, but effective method for finding who or what caused it!

Place an old sheet or large piece of white cardboard under the vehicle overnight. In the morning you will have your answer. Each fluid is a different color to help you diagnose the answers.

If the leaks have the following color, you have a good indication of what fluid you are leaking.

Bright Green: radiator coolant, this is also very slippery to the touch.

Light or Dark Brown: if you change the oil often it will be a light brown, if not the fluid will be a darker brown. Make sure to change your engine oil every 3-5000 miles.

Bright Blue: windshield washer fluid. (Winter washer fluids can be orange, pink or yellow).

Light Brown: if there is also a strong odor of rotten eggs, this is 90 weight or gear lube. It may be leaking from the rear axle center section or the manual transmission.

Red Fluid: Automatic transmission fluid or power steering fluid. Note where the fluid is coming from – it could be long life coolant

Clear: Power steering fluid or water from the condenser on the A/C unit.

Light Yellow: Brake fluid is light yellow when new as it absorbs water the fluid becomes a dark muddy brown. Brake fluid absorbs 2% water over a one year period under normal braking conditions. This is a very important fluid and should be changed every other year.

Amber: Gasoline, but there will be a distinct odor.

The location of the leak could also be a dead giveaway. Being a good sleuth make it obvious to conclude that there will not likely be an anti-freeze leak in the back of the vehicle.

The government tints fluids different colors for safety reasons. This will assist you during maintenance schedules too.

Keep a sharp eye on your vehicle; leaks can be frustrating and even dangerous. If you’re unsure go to a professional certified mechanic and ask for help. Even James Bond will ask for help at times.


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Now you can find where the fluids under your car come from. You can now determine the next step you should do. This is great! you're a true mechanic now!

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Repair a Dent in Your Car

By B. E. Conrad

There are few things that can ruin the good looks of a car quite as fast as an unexpected dent or ding. Whether the dent originated from a runaway shopping cart at the supermarket or from a careless driver on the freeway, having a dented car is certainly no fun, and repairing those dents at the local body shop can be very expensive indeed.

Fortunately for drivers with dented cars and dented wallets, there are some methods you can use to remove those inevitable dents, dings and scrapes with little out of pocket costs. While not all dents and dings will respond to the do-it-yourself approach, it is certainly worth a try, and it may end up saving you a great deal of money.

There are a number of things you will need in order to attempt these do-it-yourself dent repairs. There are a number of dent repair kits on the market, and many of these kits include everything you need to remove and repair small dents quickly and easily. Many of these kits use suction cups and similar implements, and thus have the advantage of eliminating the need to drill holes in the finish to remove a dent.

Before getting started, be sure to borrow or purchase a dent pulling kit or dent pulling tool, along with a dolly, which is a specially designed tool made for flattening and reshaping metal. A metalworking hammer will be necessary as well.

The steps needed to complete the dent reapir are as follows:

1. Locate the center of the dent, and drill a hole in the dent with a 1/8" drill bit. Alternatively, you can use a hot glue gun to glue a plastic adapter to the center of the dent. These plastic adapters and glue guns are included in many dent removal kits.

2. Thread the dent pulling tool into the newly dilled hole, or attach the dent pulling tool to the plastic circle that is glued on the dent. After the dent pulling tool is in palce, pull on it to flatten the dent or pull it out.

3. Carefully hammer the front of the dent using the metalworking hammer, while at the same time holding the dolly firmly against the back of the dent. It may be necessary to go underneath the car, or to open the trunk or hood of the car, in order to reach the back of the dent.

4. Use a medium grit disk mounted on a drill to grind the paint down to the bare metal, extending the area out at least one inch around the dent itself. Then fill the entire area with a good quality body filler.

5. Allow the body filler to dry completely, then carefully sand the area with sandpaper which has been wrapped around a block of wood. When sanding, begin with a 36-grit sandpaper and work up to a 120-grit sandpaper.

6. Use a spray primer to prime the area, being sure to use a primer specially designed for automotive use. Six coats of primer should be used, allowing each coat of primer to dry completely before applying the next coat.

7. Sand the primer using a 600-grit wet and dry sandpaper. This will help to remove any scratches. The area should then be touched up with a matching automotive paint. If the paint is not smooth, resand and repaint the area until you have a smooth surface.


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It's not that hard! You can do it by yourself and the good news about it is you save your money. Isn't it great. Learning to fix your own car is easy. You can fix the dent in your car now.

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Should You Fix It Yourself?

Don't be afraid to tackle repairs, but know your limitations.

By Matthew Wright, About.com


Let's get something on the table. This About.com Guide Site is all about Automotive Empowerment, which means that we are here to help you repair and maintain your car to the best of your abilities. A 5-minute read can prepare you to change your own air filter, but it will take a little more experience to tackle a clutch replacement. Our motto is "You Can Do It!" Knowing exactly when you can do it is key to your success as an empowered auto owner.

So how do you know when you're ready to tackle a specific repair? Nobody knows better than you do. Ask yourself a few questions:

* Are you familiar with all of the necessary tools for the job?
* Do you have enough available time to complete the repair?
* If the repair requires another person, do you have somebody who will help you out?

As long as you're realistic, you can tackle any repair or maintenance job you set out to make. Knowing your limitations, however, will keep you out of trouble. There is no worse feeling than seeing the sun set on a Sunday evening while your car lies in pieces in the driveway, knowing that you have to figure out how to get to work Monday morning. As you step off the bus in front of the office, the mail clerk will be laughing as he blows by in his lowered Civic. Sure, you're his boss, but he's laughing extra hard on the inside.


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Yes, That's very true! Know your limitations to avoid huge expenses in repairing your car and to avoid making it worse. You should know what you are doing. If you're familiar with it do it, and if not you can seek help then learn how to do it, so, next time when it happened again you can do it on your own.

Resources on Free Car Repair Guide Manila

How To Replace Your Turn Signal Relay

By Matthew Wright, About.com

Is Your Turn Signal Relay Bad, and Does It Need Replacing?
"Keep Your Signals Blinking"

Turn Signals Are An Important Safety Feature

Turn signals are one of the easiest systems in your car to troubleshoot, well usually they are. Your signal flashers either work or they don't. It's kind of like being pregnant - there's no such thing as "sort of." Troubleshooting your turn signals isn't tough. If your turn signals have stopped working, it'll be doing one of these things: blinking rapidly, coming on without blinking, or nothing at all. The good news is that all of these symptoms point to two possible issues, a bad turn signal relay or a dead bulb. If the signal blinks really fast, you have a bulb out on that side. If it doesn't come on at all, or doesn't blink, you'll need to replace your turn signal relay. Your turn signal relay is easy to replace, and they are almost never expensive.

If your turn signals aren't doing the job, and you're ready to replace your turn signal relay, read on.

*Some vehicles have separate flasher relays for turn signals and hazard lights. Be sure to check both systems while you're thinking about signal relays. Hazard lights can be very important.

Replacing the Turn Signal Relay
"Your flasher relay is easily accessible."

Carefully remove and replace the turn signal relay.
photo by Matt Wright, 2007

If you've determined that you need to replace your turn signal relay, you're in luck -- it's easy! In fact, it's one of the easiest repair you'll ever do.

1. Locate your relay cluster. You can find this in your car's owner's manual.
2. Locate the turn signal relay. This should also be in your owner's manual. If it's not, you can consult a service manual for your car.
3. Once you can see your relays, remove the old turn signal flasher relay and replace it with the new one. Don't worry about installing it incorrectly, it will only go in one way, the right way.

That's it! You're back to blinking, and back to being a safe car on the road.


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Oh! It's easy. You can repair your own car signals in just minutes. Now you can be safe driving espeacially at night. Drive Safely!

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My engine has an electric cooling fan. But the fan doesn't run all the time. Is that normal?

Yes. The cooling fan is only needed when engine temperature rises above a predetermined level -- or when there is an increased load placed on the cooling system (as when running your air conditioner). The rest of the time, running the fan would be a waste of electrical energy so it is turned off.

Electric cooling fans are found on most front-wheel drive vehicles with transverse mounted engines as well as many late model rear-wheel drive vehicles. Electric fans are used on FWD cars because the fan doesn't require a belt drive and can be mounted independent of the engine's location. What's more, electric fans require less power to operate (for improved fuel economy and performance), they're quieter, and they allow more precise control over cooling.

By comparison, a mechanical belt-driven fan can require anywhere from 5 to 15 horsepower depending on engine speed and the size of the fan. Even with a fan clutch to reduce the drag at higher speeds, it's still a lot of wasted power.
Fan Operation

At highway speeds, there is usually enough airflow through the radiator that a fan isn't needed. So the fan usually only operates when the vehicle is sitting in traffic or driving at slower speeds.

On older applications, the electric fan is controlled by a temperature switch located in the radiator or engine. When the temperature of the coolant exceeds the switch's rating (typically 195 to 235 degrees F), the switch closes and energizes a relay that supplies voltage to run the fan. The fan then continues to run until the coolant temperature drops back below the opening point of the switch. Most electric fans are also wired to come on when the A/C is on. Many vehicles also have a separate fan for the A/C condenser (dual fan systems). One or both fans come on when the A/C is on.

In newer vehicles with computerized engine controls, fan operation is regulated by the engine control module. Input from the coolant sensor, and in many cases the vehicle speed sensor too, is used to determine when the fan needs to be on.

CAUTION: Many electric fans are wired to come on anytime the engine is above a certain temperature, regardless of whether the engine is running or not. This means the fan may come on after the engine has been shut off. So keep your fingers away from the fan at all times unless the battery or fan motor wires have been disconnected.
Checking The Fan

Four things can prevent a fan from coming on when it should: a bad temperature switch or coolant sensor (or problem in the switch or sensor wiring circuit); a bad fan relay; a wiring problem (blown fuse, loose or corroded connector, shorts, opens, etc.); or a failure of the fan motor itself. Only the latter would require replacing the fan motor.

One way to check the operation of the fan motor is to jump it directly to the battery. If it spins, the motor is good, and the problem is elsewhere in the wiring or control circuit. Another check is to test for voltage with a voltmeter or test light at the fan's wiring connector. There should be voltage when the engine is hot and when the A/C is on.


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There are things you can do by yourself especially in repairing your car. You can save money by learning how to check and fix your car all by yourself. Follow the instructions in this car repair guide and you'll learn more.

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Do-It-Yourself Mechanic: The Gas Thief

The gas thief can be disguised in several ways and can strike in more than one way simultaneously.


Some of the common 'thieves' are under-inflated tires, dirty air cleaners, and forgetting tune up intervals.

Check your owner's manual or if you have misplaced or lost the owner's manual, look at the manufacturer's stickers on the door, under the hood or in the trunk of the car. Usually the manufacturer's recommended tire pressures can be found in more than one place. Following the manufacturer's recommendations will help optimize your fuel economy and tire life. Under-inflated tires increase the rolling resistance and reduces gas mileage.

The air filter is one of the most overlooked items in auto maintenance. We remember to change the oil but if the auto shop forgets to remind us to check/change the air filter, it goes unnoticed. Dirty air cleaners will cause the engine to run 'rich' and increase pollution as well as decreasing fuel efficiency.

The tune-up is often forgotten until your vehicle starts performing poorly, starts missing, or becomes hard to start. When these noticeable symptoms occur, your engine is well past the manufacturer's recommended tune-up time. Check your owner's manual! It will give recommended service intervals for all your vehicles components. This is only an educated recommendation based on 'average' usage. Consult your mechanic. He knows your vehicle and you. He will recommend service based on your vehicle's use and driving habits. Heed his advice.

The fuel system can rob you too. One of the easiest ways to maintain your fuel system is to add a fuel system cleaner to your gas tank when you have your oil changed. There are several good brands of fuel additives available. Follow the additive manufacturer's instructions as to the amount to add for your fuel tank's capacity. This will help keep deposits from building up in your carburettor/fuel injection system and keep your engine running happy.


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These simple car repair guide will help you to do-it-yourself in fixing your own car as well as saving your money at the same time. Always remember, know what you are doing! To avoid larger trouble in you car.

Resources of Free Car Repair Guide Manila

Testing an Ignition Coil on the Car

By Matthew Wright, About.com

Remove the plug and put it back in the wire.
photo by Matt Wright, 2008

Safety Tip:Working around a running engine can be dangerous. Be sure to keep yourself (including hair and clothing) away from any moving engine parts.

Testing a coil on the car is pretty easy. No special tools are required. Just remember to be careful, the amount of electricity generated by your ignition system can be dangerous.

If your coil is already off the car, or if you would like a more specific data-driven test, you can bench test your coil. To set up the test, remove one spark plug wire from its plug, then remove the spark plug using a spark plug socket. Next put the spark plug back into the spark plug wire. Be careful not to let anything drop into the empty spark plug hole -- very bad.

Test the Coil for Spark
"This test shows a good coil."

If you see a spark, the coil is doing its job.
photo by Matt Wright, 2008

Holding the plug wire with insulated pliers, find a spot on the engine that is a good and easily accessible grounding point. Pretty much any exposed metal, including the engine itself, will do.

Holding the spark plug wire with your pliers, touch the threaded portion of the spark plug to the grounding point. Have somebody crank the engine with the key, and look for a bright blue spark to jump across the spark plug gap. If you see a nice, bright spark (clearly visible in daylight) your coil is doing its job.


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May this testing your ignition coil on the car tips help you in fixing your car all by yourself. Just follow this instructions and you'll save money.

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How to jump start a car

Sometimes your battery gives up. At other times the charging system just fails, in which case you're out of luck.

But more likely, you simply parked the car and forgot to turn off the lights, draining whatever power your battery has stored up for the trip home.

Hey, it happens.

When it does, a good pair of heavy guage jumper cables stored in the trunk becomes a lifeline to getting back up to speed, either for yourself or for a fellow-traveler who's stuck on the side of the road with a dead battery.

Safety first

Before you try jump starting a car, think safety:

* Attempting to jump start a damaged battery can result in serious injury from possible acid explosion or resulting fireworks. If the battery casing is cracked or bulging slowly back away from the vehicle and call a tow truck.

* Another possible bad science experiment is when "hot jumper cable meets FROZEN car battery". In cold weather, it's a disaster waiting to happen.

* For these and other reasons, never lean directly over the battery while connecting the cables, and wear goggles if you have them.

* Never smoke or allow sparks or flames near a car battery.

How to jump start a car

* With both cars turned off, position them front-to-front or parallel, and open both hoods.

* Identify the positive and negative terminals on each battery and connect one RED clamp from the jumper cables to the POSTIVE (+) terminal on the dead battery.

* Now connect the other RED clamp to the POSTIVE (+) terminal on the live battery.

* Connect one BLACK clamp to the NEGATIVE (-) terminal on the live battery.

* Now connect the other BLACK clamp to a ground somewhere on the engine block away from any moving parts. DO NOT CONNECT THE SECOND NEGATIVE CABLE TO THE SECOND NEGATIVE TERMINAL of the dead battery unless you want to see flying sparks.

* Attempt to start the disabled car. If it doesn't, start the engine on the live car and allow the battery in the disabled car to charge for a few minutes.

* Try starting the disabled car again. Once the car starts, disconnect the jumper cables in the exact reverse order, being careful not to touch the clamps to each other or anything else on the cars.

* Allow the jumped car to idle for 15-30 minutes to allow the battery to charge completely before getting back on the road.


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Just follow these steps and you can definitely jump-start your car by yourself. Car repair guide is an easy way to fix your own car. So continue reading this guides.

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How to change a flat tire

Most motorists will have face a flat tire at least once in their lives. So becoming familiar with the tools and methods on how to change a flat tire is worth the time and effort to avoid becoming stranded, or relying on an emergency vehicle.

Just like being prepared for changing a broken headlight, knowing how to change a flat tire on some dark and stormy night is a very useful do-it-yourself survival skill for any car owner to have.

Here's how:

How to change a flat tire

* Turn on your hazard lights and slowly pull off the road. Find the most level surface possible, avoiding soft areas or inclines. If you have them in the trunk, place flares or traffic cones in front and back of the car to alert other motorists that you're in distress.

* Put car in "Park" and your emergency brake on, or a put standard transmission car in gear. If possible, place a wheel chock or any heavy object (a brick or rock) in the diagonally opposing wheel to prevent the car from moving.

* Take out the spare tire, tire iron and the jack from the trunk. Remove the hub cap and use the tire iron to begin loosening the lug nuts. This will almost certainly require a bit of strength! If necessary, stomp down on the tire iron with your foot to release the lug's grip. Just make sure you're stomping in a counterclockwise position. Go ahead and loosen all the lug nuts, but do not remove the them just yet.

* Next, place the jack under a safe jacking point (consult your owner's manual) under the frame near the tire that you are going to change. Jack up the car just enough so that the tire is off the ground, then remove the lugs with the tire iron or by hand. Set the flat tire aside, and be sure to place lugs in your pocket so they don't get lost.

* Place the spare tire on the hub, and align the tire with the wheel studs. Once in place, screw each of the lug nuts back on by hand, then finish tightening using the tire iron.

* With the spare tire now securely in place, slowly lower the jack and pull it away from under the car.

* With the car now firmly on the ground, tighten the lugs again as much as possible. Replace the hub cap, and you're on your way.

* Since some spare tires are only made for emergencies, most manufacturers don't recommend driving on one for more than 50 miles. As soon as possible, get to the nearest service station to get your flat tire patched or replaced.


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Now you have an idea to replace your tire. Isn't it easy! These free car repair guide will help you manage and fix your own car and save money at the same time. Continue reading to learn more guides on how to repair your car.

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Preparing For Your Oil Change "Oil change stuff."

http://www.royalpurple.com/breakin-oil.html

Gather what you'll need for your oil change.
photo mw
Never change your oil while the engine is hot! Let it cool for a few hours, oil can burn you badly.

Be sure you have a safe area to do your oil change. Level, solid ground is a must so that you can safely jack up your car. I also like to put something on the driveway or garage floor underneath the engine in case you spill. Cardboard or a piece of plywood are great for this.
Before you even start to do your oil change, be sure you have everything you need to get the job done.

What You'll Need

* Ratchet or open end wrench
* Oil filter wrench
* Oil catch/recycle container
* Funnel
* New oil filter
* New Oil
* Clean rag

Let's get to it.

Draining the Old Oil
"Loosen the oil drain plug."

The plug is at the bottom of the oil pan.
photo mw
The first step in an oil change is to get the old stuff out of there. The oil drains out of the oil pan at the very bottom of your engine. The oil is held in by a drain plug that looks like a big bolt at the bottom of the pan.

Catching the Oil For Recycling
"A proper container keeps things clean."

Let the drain plug drop onto the screen.
photo mw
Before you remove the oil drain plug, be sure that your recycling container is positioned underneath the oil drain. An oil change can be no fun if most of your time is spent cleaning up oil.

When you remove the drain plug, let it drop into the top of the recycling container. There's a screen on top that will keep it from dropping into the muck.

Let all of the oil drain out, then replace the drain plug, tightening it to your cars torque specifications (or "snug but not too hard" if you are sans torque wrench.)

Put the cap on the oil recycling container so you can drop it off at a location that accepts used oil -- most full service gas stations accept it.

Remove the Old Oil Filter
"Try not to spill the oil."

Remove the old oil filter carefully.
photo mw
Next you need to remove your old oil filter. Using an oil filter wrench, turn the filter counterclockwise until it's free. Be careful with it, it's still full of old oil that can spill and make a mess.

Some oil filters can be reached from the top, but for most you'll have to be under the car.

The New Oil Filter
"Prepare the oil filter."

Lubricate the gasket on the new filter.
photo mw
With the old oil out and the old filter out of the way, it's time to put the change in oil change. But before you install the new oil filter, you have to prep it.

Before you screw the new oil filter into place, lubricate the rubber gasket on the end of the filter with some new oil.

Next, fill the new oil filter with oil to about 2/3. It's ok if you go over that amount, it just means you might spill a bit when you screw it on.

Installing the New Oil Filter
"New oil filter."

Screw the new filter on tightly with your hand.
photo mw
Carefully screw the new oil filter into place. Remember, it has oil in it so don't forget to hold it upright. It screws on clockwise.

You don't need a wrench to install the new oil filter. Screw it on as tight as you can get it with one hand. Overtightening the oil filter can strip its threads and cause a leak. Of course, not tightening it enough can cause a leak. So screw it on as tight as it will go with one hand, but no more.

Refilling the Engine Oil
"Refilling the engine oil."

Use a funnel to refill the engine oil.
photo mw
Now you're ready to fill the engine with oil. Unscrew the oil fill cap and insert your funnel. I like to buy the 5-quart containers of oil (cheaper) but if you're using single quarts that's fine, too.

Check your owner's manual to find out how much oil your engine holds. Pour a little more than 3/4 that amount into the engine. For example, if your car holds 4 quarts of oil, add 3 1/2.

If you're using a 5-quart container of oil, there is a guide on the side that shows how much oil you've put in.

You're not finished yet so don't drive off.

Checking the Oil Level
"Fill, check, fill, check"

Check the oil and add as needed.
photo mw
We didn't add all the oil because there may still be a little oil here and there we didn't account for.

Check your oil and add more until you're at the right level.

Be sure to put your oil cap back on! Oil spray can cause a fire.


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Isn't it that easy! Now you can change your cars oil by yourself. Continue reading Free Car repair guide Manila for other tips..


More Car Repair Guide

Dealership closing? Try independent mechanic

Early fixes save cash

Don’t wait until the repair becomes a horror story. Consumer Reports offers ways to keep your car in top condition:

♦Check the maintenance schedule in your owner’s manual to see what service is recommended and how often. Follow it scrupulously for as long as you own the car.

♦Mark your calendar with estimated dates for services such as oil changes, tire rotations and fluid flushes.

♦New noises are not normal. If you hear something odd when accelerating, braking or turning, have it checked by a mechanic.

♦At least once a month, check the levels of the car’s fluids, such as oil, coolant and brake fluid. The owner’s manual usually has instructions that are quite specific and easy to follow.

♦At least once a month, check the air pressure in each tire, including the spare, when they’re cold. If necessary, adjust the pressure to match the carmaker’s recommendation.

♦If your mechanic recommends additional maintenance services not specified in the owner’s manual, ask why they’re necessary. If you’re skeptical, check with other mechanics for additional opinions and cost estimates.
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From Consumer Reports

If the car dealership you’ve been using for service has closed, it’s time to find a new mechanic. And unless you plan on driving a good way to the next nearest dealership, the editors of Consumer Reports suggest opting for an independent shop.

Your car will probably still be in good hands. According to a survey CR conducted last year of owners of almost 350,000 vehicles, people who used independent mechanics were generally more satisfied than those who had their car serviced at a dealership.

If your car is under warranty, you will still need to go to a dealership for warranty repairs, but you won’t need to go to the dealership for routine maintenance. Under federal law, you have the right to have repairs performed anywhere without voiding the warranty.

But identifying a mechanic you can trust for your car takes a lot more than letting your fingers do the walking. CR recommends doing a little old-fashioned sleuthing. There’s no single clue to what makes a good repair shop, but here are some things you should look for:

Find a shop for your brand of car. Many garages specialize in certain makes. Those that focus on your type are more likely to have the latest training and equipment to fix your vehicle.

Ask your family and friends. Especially seek recommendations from those who have a vehicle similar to yours.

♦Search the Internet. Look for information about local mechanics on Angie’s List www.angieslist.com, RepairPal www.repairpal.com and the Mechanics Files at Cartalk.com. RepairPal and Cartalk.com provide those services free; Angie’s List requires a subscription.

♦Check for certification. Your mechanic and shop should be certified by the National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence, or ASE.

♦Check the Better Business Bureau. Auto repair shops rank 12th on the bureau’s list of common complaints. Go to www.bbb.org; the information might help you figure out which shops you should avoid.

♦Give the shop a tryout. Before your car needs a big repair, you might want to try out some local shops with smaller repairs or maintenance items, such as oil and filter changes.

♦Ask about warranties. What kind of guarantees does the shop give on repair work? Warranties can vary greatly among shops. Use a common repair, such as brake work, as your guide. Make sure the shop is convenient. Even the best shop might not be worth the effort if its hours conflict with your schedule or you have few transportation options after you drop off the car.


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You can save big money by independently repairing your car? Whoah! It sounds really good! Less expenses if you repair your car beforehand, just follow this guide and I assure you can repair your own car without having any hassles.

Car Repair Guide