Auto Repair & Diagnostics : How to Diagnose an Engine Problem

Saturday, January 30, 2010

Do It Yourself Auto Repair Tips: Once-A-Month Maintenance to Keep Your Car

Preventative maintenance isn’t a “cool” topic, but in today’s economic climate it’s more important than ever to keep your car in top running shape so that it will last as long as possible — without costly repairs. By performing a few minutes of maintenance once a month, you can help ensure that your car will be running for a long, long time.

Auto Repair Help for the “Do It Yourselfer”: Learn where things are located under your car’s hood in the video below so you can become a real do-it-yourself auto repair expert in no time.


Auto Repair Tip: Arm yourself with this information so you’ll never get ripped off by auto repairmen again.

With just a little practice, the following tasks can be done in less than 15 minutes. It might take a little longer the first few times you run through the steps, but a few minutes now prevents lengthy waits in repair shops, so it’s worth it. Just follow this list:

    * Check the air filter - If you can’t see any light through the sides, drop it lightly on a hard surface and look again. If you still can’t see light, it’s time for a new filter. Regardless, your air filter should be replaced once a year or each 20,000 miles.
    * Check the belts - If any of the belts has more than 1/2″ of give when you push it, you might be able to adjust it if the belt is in good shape. If any belt is cracked, frayed, or shiny on the inside it should be replaced regardless.
    * Check the battery - If the battery has caps or bars on top, carefully pry them off and check the water level. If low, fill to the top of the metal plates with distilled water. If there are powdery deposits on either of the terminals, they’ll also need cleaning. You can clean the worst of these deposits with a small amount of Coca-cola followed by a small amount of clean water for a rinse. Dry the terminals completely then coat with a small amount of petroleum jelly to keep the corrosion from coming back.
    * Check the radiator - Most modern cars have a coolant overflow tank, so there’s usually no reason to open the radiator. Check to make sure the fluid is at the “full” line. If not, add a 50/50 mixture of coolant and water. Most modern engine blocks are aluminum and require the protection of coolant, so only add straight water in an emergency. Straight coolant is overkill. Never open a pressure cap while the engine is hot!
    * Check the hoses - walk around the front of the engine compartment and feel/look at each hose. Any that are cracked, bulging, or excessively soft should be replaced. It’s cheap and easy to replace a hose before it bursts. If you lose on on the highway the tow charge alone could be 6x the cost or more.
    * Check the oil dipstick - pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean lint-free rag (or paper towel). Put the dipstick back in the engine and check it again. The oil level should be between the “add” and “full” lines. If the oil is dirty or smells like gasoline, it’s time to change it.
    * Check the transmission fluid - the transmission dipstick is nearly the same as the oil dipstick, but it’s usually a little harder to spot. It’s checked in the same manner, but if you have to add transmission fluid, it’s added via the dipstick tube. After you check the level, rub a little of the oil between your fingers. It should be pinkish and clean. If not, you’ll need to have your mechanic replace the transmission fluid. This job is far less costly than a new transmission.
    * Check brake fluid - If your car has ABS, refer to the owner’s manual before checking this fluid level. Otherwise, open the top of the brake fluid reservoir and check that the level is between the low and high level marks. Be careful to not get brake fluid on anything painted- it eats paint. Also, brake fluid can be ruined if it’s left exposed to air in as little as 15 minutes, so be sure to keep the bottle closed tightly. If the brake fluid looks dirty, have your mechanic replace it. On average, brake fluid should be replaced every 2 years.
    * Check the power steering fluid - again, make sure the fluid level is up to the fill mark.
    * Check the wiring - if any wires look frayed or if there is lots of corrosion on them, they’ll need to be replaced by your mechanic. Again, this job is far less expensive if you replace them before they fail.
    * Check the washer fluid - while not as critical as the other fluids, it’s worth taking the time to check and fill your washer fluid while under the hood. If you’re in a cold area, it’s important to use a solution that contains antifreeze.
    * Check wiper blades - Obviously you’ll know when your blades are getting old when they start skipping or streaking during a rain storm. Replace them as soon as you notice a problem.
    * Check tires - Check the air pressure in your tires. Properly inflated tires will help improve your gas mileage and will help with even tire wear. If your tires are worn, get them replaced for both safety and to prevent a costly road call.

 Fifteen minutes of effort once per month can prevent hours of towing and repair shop waiting, as well as the costs associated with them. These maintenance items can also help your car last as long as possible.





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It's better that you check your car especially when you're on a long road trip. Checking it's condition lessens problems and less expensive.

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Wednesday, January 6, 2010

6 Brake Problems to Beware Of

No matter how you drive, brake problems can surface and put you and your family at risk. When you develop a brake problem be cautious and call for service. Do not drive the vehicle to another location unless you are stuck in an intersection. The following is a list of the 6 most prominent brake problems:

ABS Brake Warning Light Appears

The ABS warning light means that your car's onboard computer has shut off the ABS braking system. The computer will shut it off when it has picked up on a problem. Your car's brakes will stop you, but you will have no protection against a brake or wheel lock-up. You will be able to get to an auto repair center safely.

Brake Warning Light Appears

This can simply advise you that the car's emergency brake is still engaged. Release it if it is on, and see if the light goes out. More seriously, your brake lubricating and cooling fluid may be low. Take the vehicle and have the fluid checked and filled.

If refilling the brake fluid does not turn the light off, you may have a fluid leak in one part of the braking system. If you are at the auto service center, alert them to check the entire brake system.

Locked Brakes

If your vehicle has ABS, but you still lock up your brakes when applying them, a dangerous problem exists. It could be due to a damaged brake pad, shoe or both, or it could be related to the disc calipers or wheel bearings. Call for roadside assistance and get tow truck right away.

Brake Pedal Won't Go Down at All, "Hard" Brake

This problem has causes ranging from simple: something stuck under the brake pedal; to complex: pinched or failed brake fluid line, or a failure of the power brake boosting mechanism, among others. Check under the brake pedal for a blockage, often just a crumpled floor mat. If this does not solve the problem, contact roadside assistance for a tow to an auto repair center.

Brake Pedal is "Mushy", Goes Down Well Beyond Normal Level

Mushy or spongy brakes can result from air in the brake fluid line. Also, there may be a more serious problem, brake fluid leak or damage to the master brake cylinder. Call for a tow truck and bring in your car to a service center.

Brakes Squeal

The squealing noise made by brakes has many sources. It could be dirt trapped in the wheel. Run the vehicle through the car wash to see if it can be cleaned out. An intermittent brake squeal that sounds only when brakes are on can be from worn brake linings, worn, warped or cracked brake shoes or brake adjusters that need realignment. A continuous brake squeal, even when they are not applied, indicates either wheel bearing damage or that your brake pads have reached the replacement point. Have this repair done soon to prevent brake rotor damage.

Your brakes are your car's key safety system. Have them inspected and maintained regularly.






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You should always check your car if you notice one of these signs you should check on it to avoid accidents or large expenses in fixing it.
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Sunday, January 3, 2010

Dead car battery


A dead car battery is one of the most common problems facing the automotive public. I'm sure at one point you have gone out to your vehicle and found a no start condition due to a dead battery. The question is, what to do next.

The first thing to address is how long will a car battery last. On average, a car battery will last for about three to five years.

In most cases you will find that it will last towards the shorter end of this scale and need to be replaced at the three-year mark.

There are many variables that will determine how long a car battery will last. Some of the things that will send it to an early grave are as follows.

Many short trips on a daily basis can reduce the life of your automotive batteries.

If your vehicle has an average run time of less than 20 minutes, your alternator will not have the opportunity to recharge it fully.

Many starting cycles, coupled with short run time will leave your battery below the ideal charged specification for most of it’s shortened life.

Another reason for a dead car battery would be exposures to extreme temperatures. The cranking power is created by a chemical reaction.

The outside temperature affects this chemical reaction. This is why you will find that most batteries are encased in an insulated jacket.

This insulation allows it to go through its normal temperature changes slowly and can extend overall battery life.

One of the big mistakes that the do-it-yourself and professional mechanics will make is when they replace a car battery they will discard this insulated cover.

This will also shorten the life span. The manufacture put this insulated cover on for a reason so you don’t want to forget to reinstall it.

Dead car battery diagnosis

When your car battery goes completely dead, there are a few factors that will determine your next step. If it is more than three years old, you’re best bet would be to replace the battery.

If you're not sure how old it is your next step should be to charge and test the battery. Note: You should always wear safety glasses and protective clothing. Battery acid is dangerous stuff!

Battery chargers and testers have come down in price in recent years. These are good tools to have around. This way you will have what you need when faced with the dead battery problem.

The testers and chargers are easy to use and have simple indicators of green and red. That will take the guessing out of diagnosing your automotive battery.

Take care of your car battery


If you take care of your battery, it will take care of you. Regular maintenance is a good habit to get into.

If you want your battery to last to the five-year mark, you're going to have to take care of it. This is very easy to do.

The stuff to use is called terminal protector spray. If you apply this product to a new or clean terminals, it will greatly reduce the amount of corrosion that builds up.

Corrosion can prevent the proper automatic charging of the battery from the vehicles alternator.

If you follow this procedure once every six months, it will last much longer. This is one of those situations where an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

A dead car battery is a fact of life. Being prepared for when this happens is also simpler then you may think.

To avoid being stuck somewhere, you want to make sure that you have a good set of battery cables and safety glasses in your vehicle.

You also want to be familiar with the hook up and operation of these cables.

An even better solution to the dead battery problem is to have your own jump box.

Having your own battery jump box can avoid the problems of hooking up the jumper cables to another vehicle. It is also nice to be able to jump your vehicle without having to ask somebody for help.

These jump boxes have also come down in price over the last few years. My own personal battery jumper is about five years old and has saved my neighbors and me many times.

I own the jump n carry 600 that has been updated to the 660 model. This thing has 1700 peak amps at 12 volts. If this monster does not jump your vehicle then it has another problem. I have jumped dump trucks and buses as well as my wife's Camry with my jump box.

This unit may be overkill for the do it yourself mechanic and it has no reverse polarity protection so you better hook it up right.If your looking for a lighter duty model with built in protection than I would recommend the Duracell jumper below.

All of the tools listed below and talked about above come with easy-to-follow instruction manuals. Learning about how to use these cranking and charging system tools will assure you know what to do the next time you are faced with a dead car battery.


The battery tester below will also diagnose the charging system. And if your vehicle does a lot of sitting take a look at the charge tender. I own most of the tools listed below but for more independent reviews click on the product and view the testimonials.



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Battery tester is also an important tool that you should have. Usually dead battery is a cause when you're car won't start.
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