Do-It-Yourself Mechanic: The Gas Thief

The gas thief can be disguised in several ways and can strike in more than one way simultaneously.


Some of the common 'thieves' are under-inflated tires, dirty air cleaners, and forgetting tune up intervals.

Check your owner's manual or if you have misplaced or lost the owner's manual, look at the manufacturer's stickers on the door, under the hood or in the trunk of the car. Usually the manufacturer's recommended tire pressures can be found in more than one place. Following the manufacturer's recommendations will help optimize your fuel economy and tire life. Under-inflated tires increase the rolling resistance and reduces gas mileage.

The air filter is one of the most overlooked items in auto maintenance. We remember to change the oil but if the auto shop forgets to remind us to check/change the air filter, it goes unnoticed. Dirty air cleaners will cause the engine to run 'rich' and increase pollution as well as decreasing fuel efficiency.

The tune-up is often forgotten until your vehicle starts performing poorly, starts missing, or becomes hard to start. When these noticeable symptoms occur, your engine is well past the manufacturer's recommended tune-up time. Check your owner's manual! It will give recommended service intervals for all your vehicles components. This is only an educated recommendation based on 'average' usage. Consult your mechanic. He knows your vehicle and you. He will recommend service based on your vehicle's use and driving habits. Heed his advice.

The fuel system can rob you too. One of the easiest ways to maintain your fuel system is to add a fuel system cleaner to your gas tank when you have your oil changed. There are several good brands of fuel additives available. Follow the additive manufacturer's instructions as to the amount to add for your fuel tank's capacity. This will help keep deposits from building up in your carburettor/fuel injection system and keep your engine running happy.


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These simple car repair guide will help you to do-it-yourself in fixing your own car as well as saving your money at the same time. Always remember, know what you are doing! To avoid larger trouble in you car.

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Testing an Ignition Coil on the Car

By Matthew Wright, About.com

Remove the plug and put it back in the wire.
photo by Matt Wright, 2008

Safety Tip:Working around a running engine can be dangerous. Be sure to keep yourself (including hair and clothing) away from any moving engine parts.

Testing a coil on the car is pretty easy. No special tools are required. Just remember to be careful, the amount of electricity generated by your ignition system can be dangerous.

If your coil is already off the car, or if you would like a more specific data-driven test, you can bench test your coil. To set up the test, remove one spark plug wire from its plug, then remove the spark plug using a spark plug socket. Next put the spark plug back into the spark plug wire. Be careful not to let anything drop into the empty spark plug hole -- very bad.

Test the Coil for Spark
"This test shows a good coil."

If you see a spark, the coil is doing its job.
photo by Matt Wright, 2008

Holding the plug wire with insulated pliers, find a spot on the engine that is a good and easily accessible grounding point. Pretty much any exposed metal, including the engine itself, will do.

Holding the spark plug wire with your pliers, touch the threaded portion of the spark plug to the grounding point. Have somebody crank the engine with the key, and look for a bright blue spark to jump across the spark plug gap. If you see a nice, bright spark (clearly visible in daylight) your coil is doing its job.


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May this testing your ignition coil on the car tips help you in fixing your car all by yourself. Just follow this instructions and you'll save money.

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How to jump start a car

Sometimes your battery gives up. At other times the charging system just fails, in which case you're out of luck.

But more likely, you simply parked the car and forgot to turn off the lights, draining whatever power your battery has stored up for the trip home.

Hey, it happens.

When it does, a good pair of heavy guage jumper cables stored in the trunk becomes a lifeline to getting back up to speed, either for yourself or for a fellow-traveler who's stuck on the side of the road with a dead battery.

Safety first

Before you try jump starting a car, think safety:

* Attempting to jump start a damaged battery can result in serious injury from possible acid explosion or resulting fireworks. If the battery casing is cracked or bulging slowly back away from the vehicle and call a tow truck.

* Another possible bad science experiment is when "hot jumper cable meets FROZEN car battery". In cold weather, it's a disaster waiting to happen.

* For these and other reasons, never lean directly over the battery while connecting the cables, and wear goggles if you have them.

* Never smoke or allow sparks or flames near a car battery.

How to jump start a car

* With both cars turned off, position them front-to-front or parallel, and open both hoods.

* Identify the positive and negative terminals on each battery and connect one RED clamp from the jumper cables to the POSTIVE (+) terminal on the dead battery.

* Now connect the other RED clamp to the POSTIVE (+) terminal on the live battery.

* Connect one BLACK clamp to the NEGATIVE (-) terminal on the live battery.

* Now connect the other BLACK clamp to a ground somewhere on the engine block away from any moving parts. DO NOT CONNECT THE SECOND NEGATIVE CABLE TO THE SECOND NEGATIVE TERMINAL of the dead battery unless you want to see flying sparks.

* Attempt to start the disabled car. If it doesn't, start the engine on the live car and allow the battery in the disabled car to charge for a few minutes.

* Try starting the disabled car again. Once the car starts, disconnect the jumper cables in the exact reverse order, being careful not to touch the clamps to each other or anything else on the cars.

* Allow the jumped car to idle for 15-30 minutes to allow the battery to charge completely before getting back on the road.


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Just follow these steps and you can definitely jump-start your car by yourself. Car repair guide is an easy way to fix your own car. So continue reading this guides.

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How to change a flat tire

Most motorists will have face a flat tire at least once in their lives. So becoming familiar with the tools and methods on how to change a flat tire is worth the time and effort to avoid becoming stranded, or relying on an emergency vehicle.

Just like being prepared for changing a broken headlight, knowing how to change a flat tire on some dark and stormy night is a very useful do-it-yourself survival skill for any car owner to have.

Here's how:

How to change a flat tire

* Turn on your hazard lights and slowly pull off the road. Find the most level surface possible, avoiding soft areas or inclines. If you have them in the trunk, place flares or traffic cones in front and back of the car to alert other motorists that you're in distress.

* Put car in "Park" and your emergency brake on, or a put standard transmission car in gear. If possible, place a wheel chock or any heavy object (a brick or rock) in the diagonally opposing wheel to prevent the car from moving.

* Take out the spare tire, tire iron and the jack from the trunk. Remove the hub cap and use the tire iron to begin loosening the lug nuts. This will almost certainly require a bit of strength! If necessary, stomp down on the tire iron with your foot to release the lug's grip. Just make sure you're stomping in a counterclockwise position. Go ahead and loosen all the lug nuts, but do not remove the them just yet.

* Next, place the jack under a safe jacking point (consult your owner's manual) under the frame near the tire that you are going to change. Jack up the car just enough so that the tire is off the ground, then remove the lugs with the tire iron or by hand. Set the flat tire aside, and be sure to place lugs in your pocket so they don't get lost.

* Place the spare tire on the hub, and align the tire with the wheel studs. Once in place, screw each of the lug nuts back on by hand, then finish tightening using the tire iron.

* With the spare tire now securely in place, slowly lower the jack and pull it away from under the car.

* With the car now firmly on the ground, tighten the lugs again as much as possible. Replace the hub cap, and you're on your way.

* Since some spare tires are only made for emergencies, most manufacturers don't recommend driving on one for more than 50 miles. As soon as possible, get to the nearest service station to get your flat tire patched or replaced.


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Now you have an idea to replace your tire. Isn't it easy! These free car repair guide will help you manage and fix your own car and save money at the same time. Continue reading to learn more guides on how to repair your car.

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Preparing For Your Oil Change "Oil change stuff."

http://www.royalpurple.com/breakin-oil.html

Gather what you'll need for your oil change.
photo mw
Never change your oil while the engine is hot! Let it cool for a few hours, oil can burn you badly.

Be sure you have a safe area to do your oil change. Level, solid ground is a must so that you can safely jack up your car. I also like to put something on the driveway or garage floor underneath the engine in case you spill. Cardboard or a piece of plywood are great for this.
Before you even start to do your oil change, be sure you have everything you need to get the job done.

What You'll Need

* Ratchet or open end wrench
* Oil filter wrench
* Oil catch/recycle container
* Funnel
* New oil filter
* New Oil
* Clean rag

Let's get to it.

Draining the Old Oil
"Loosen the oil drain plug."

The plug is at the bottom of the oil pan.
photo mw
The first step in an oil change is to get the old stuff out of there. The oil drains out of the oil pan at the very bottom of your engine. The oil is held in by a drain plug that looks like a big bolt at the bottom of the pan.

Catching the Oil For Recycling
"A proper container keeps things clean."

Let the drain plug drop onto the screen.
photo mw
Before you remove the oil drain plug, be sure that your recycling container is positioned underneath the oil drain. An oil change can be no fun if most of your time is spent cleaning up oil.

When you remove the drain plug, let it drop into the top of the recycling container. There's a screen on top that will keep it from dropping into the muck.

Let all of the oil drain out, then replace the drain plug, tightening it to your cars torque specifications (or "snug but not too hard" if you are sans torque wrench.)

Put the cap on the oil recycling container so you can drop it off at a location that accepts used oil -- most full service gas stations accept it.

Remove the Old Oil Filter
"Try not to spill the oil."

Remove the old oil filter carefully.
photo mw
Next you need to remove your old oil filter. Using an oil filter wrench, turn the filter counterclockwise until it's free. Be careful with it, it's still full of old oil that can spill and make a mess.

Some oil filters can be reached from the top, but for most you'll have to be under the car.

The New Oil Filter
"Prepare the oil filter."

Lubricate the gasket on the new filter.
photo mw
With the old oil out and the old filter out of the way, it's time to put the change in oil change. But before you install the new oil filter, you have to prep it.

Before you screw the new oil filter into place, lubricate the rubber gasket on the end of the filter with some new oil.

Next, fill the new oil filter with oil to about 2/3. It's ok if you go over that amount, it just means you might spill a bit when you screw it on.

Installing the New Oil Filter
"New oil filter."

Screw the new filter on tightly with your hand.
photo mw
Carefully screw the new oil filter into place. Remember, it has oil in it so don't forget to hold it upright. It screws on clockwise.

You don't need a wrench to install the new oil filter. Screw it on as tight as you can get it with one hand. Overtightening the oil filter can strip its threads and cause a leak. Of course, not tightening it enough can cause a leak. So screw it on as tight as it will go with one hand, but no more.

Refilling the Engine Oil
"Refilling the engine oil."

Use a funnel to refill the engine oil.
photo mw
Now you're ready to fill the engine with oil. Unscrew the oil fill cap and insert your funnel. I like to buy the 5-quart containers of oil (cheaper) but if you're using single quarts that's fine, too.

Check your owner's manual to find out how much oil your engine holds. Pour a little more than 3/4 that amount into the engine. For example, if your car holds 4 quarts of oil, add 3 1/2.

If you're using a 5-quart container of oil, there is a guide on the side that shows how much oil you've put in.

You're not finished yet so don't drive off.

Checking the Oil Level
"Fill, check, fill, check"

Check the oil and add as needed.
photo mw
We didn't add all the oil because there may still be a little oil here and there we didn't account for.

Check your oil and add more until you're at the right level.

Be sure to put your oil cap back on! Oil spray can cause a fire.


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Isn't it that easy! Now you can change your cars oil by yourself. Continue reading Free Car repair guide Manila for other tips..


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Dealership closing? Try independent mechanic

Early fixes save cash

Don’t wait until the repair becomes a horror story. Consumer Reports offers ways to keep your car in top condition:

♦Check the maintenance schedule in your owner’s manual to see what service is recommended and how often. Follow it scrupulously for as long as you own the car.

♦Mark your calendar with estimated dates for services such as oil changes, tire rotations and fluid flushes.

♦New noises are not normal. If you hear something odd when accelerating, braking or turning, have it checked by a mechanic.

♦At least once a month, check the levels of the car’s fluids, such as oil, coolant and brake fluid. The owner’s manual usually has instructions that are quite specific and easy to follow.

♦At least once a month, check the air pressure in each tire, including the spare, when they’re cold. If necessary, adjust the pressure to match the carmaker’s recommendation.

♦If your mechanic recommends additional maintenance services not specified in the owner’s manual, ask why they’re necessary. If you’re skeptical, check with other mechanics for additional opinions and cost estimates.
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From Consumer Reports

If the car dealership you’ve been using for service has closed, it’s time to find a new mechanic. And unless you plan on driving a good way to the next nearest dealership, the editors of Consumer Reports suggest opting for an independent shop.

Your car will probably still be in good hands. According to a survey CR conducted last year of owners of almost 350,000 vehicles, people who used independent mechanics were generally more satisfied than those who had their car serviced at a dealership.

If your car is under warranty, you will still need to go to a dealership for warranty repairs, but you won’t need to go to the dealership for routine maintenance. Under federal law, you have the right to have repairs performed anywhere without voiding the warranty.

But identifying a mechanic you can trust for your car takes a lot more than letting your fingers do the walking. CR recommends doing a little old-fashioned sleuthing. There’s no single clue to what makes a good repair shop, but here are some things you should look for:

Find a shop for your brand of car. Many garages specialize in certain makes. Those that focus on your type are more likely to have the latest training and equipment to fix your vehicle.

Ask your family and friends. Especially seek recommendations from those who have a vehicle similar to yours.

♦Search the Internet. Look for information about local mechanics on Angie’s List www.angieslist.com, RepairPal www.repairpal.com and the Mechanics Files at Cartalk.com. RepairPal and Cartalk.com provide those services free; Angie’s List requires a subscription.

♦Check for certification. Your mechanic and shop should be certified by the National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence, or ASE.

♦Check the Better Business Bureau. Auto repair shops rank 12th on the bureau’s list of common complaints. Go to www.bbb.org; the information might help you figure out which shops you should avoid.

♦Give the shop a tryout. Before your car needs a big repair, you might want to try out some local shops with smaller repairs or maintenance items, such as oil and filter changes.

♦Ask about warranties. What kind of guarantees does the shop give on repair work? Warranties can vary greatly among shops. Use a common repair, such as brake work, as your guide. Make sure the shop is convenient. Even the best shop might not be worth the effort if its hours conflict with your schedule or you have few transportation options after you drop off the car.


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You can save big money by independently repairing your car? Whoah! It sounds really good! Less expenses if you repair your car beforehand, just follow this guide and I assure you can repair your own car without having any hassles.

Car Repair Guide