Auto Repair & Diagnostics : How to Diagnose an Engine Problem

Wednesday, September 30, 2009

DIY car care

Looking after your car and having it serviced regularly will reduce your chances of breaking down.

We recommend that you leave the complex repairs to a qualified professional but there are a number of maintenance checks you can do yourself to help prevent a breakdown.

Check your distributor cap

The distributor cap is a cylindrical casing that holds the wires that run to the spark plugs from the distributor. It generally has five 'posts' at the top depending on the number of cylinders your car has.

Keep it clean and dry and check for small cracks. If the distributor cap is damaged or cracked, get it replaced by a qualified mechanic.

Test your clutch

The clutch should 'engage' when the clutch pedal is depressed about half way, if it engages when the clutch pedal is depressed further than this it could be a sign that the clutch is worn. Stiff gears can also be a sign of a worn clutch.

Check your spark plugs

Spark plugs are small and easy to change. If your car cuts out when driving, it could be that your spark plugs are dirty and need changing.

Standard copper spark plugs should be changed every 10,000 - 20, 000 miles.



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These are the basic car parts you can check to avoid car breakdown. Maintenance is a big role to have your car a long existence.

Source

Monday, September 28, 2009

DIY Car Care Tips For You

A regular car maintenance routine is very important for every car owner. There are several reasons why you should keep your car in proper condition. The prevention of wear and tear gives your car an extended life. Also, when going on a long drive a well maintained car will let you enjoy the pleasure of the traveling by car. Expensive breakdowns can also be minimized to a great extent. However, you should keep in mind about the various levels of maintenance that your car needs.

First and foremost, in order to maintain a car and keep it in smooth running condition, you need to change the oil of your car, which is not that difficult, if you've the right equipment and the right amount of patience. But do you feel confident you can maintain your car yourself, with no professional help? If you don't, in that case you could pay occasional visits to the mechanic who can take good care of your car.

Tuning the Car

Regular tuning up the car is really necessary, since the engine of a tuned up car lasts longer. Plus, with regular tuning, you will see that you car's giving a better mileage for a longer time. As fuel prices are shooting up everyday, it is important to see to it that your car's fuel consumption is not too much.

Tuning Your Car Yourself

Engine tune ups can be pretty expensive if you want a professional mechanic to do the job for you. You have to go to auto repair shop and hire a mechanic to help you out with this if your car's in a bad state and needs care from an expert auto mechanic. However, if you have the necessary skills to tune your car the right way, then go ahead and do up your car.

What goes into the Maintenance of your Car?

Here are a few suggestions:

• You have to check your car for the battery levels at least four times every year. Every season you could go and get your car's battery check up done. Add distilled water to the battery, if the battery levels are going down. You also need to check the cable clamps and terminals and maybe, you need to clean them with a bit of baking soda and a wire brush.

• There are also the spark plugs that you need to run a check on. After every 35,000 miles you need to get a new spark plug for sure. But if you are lucky enough to have platinum spark plugs you can change it or think of changing it after 65,000 miles.

• A major tune up also means that you get your distributor cap altered. But once again, if you are lucky enough to have permanent pones attached to the spark plug cables, then you really don't need to change them. The rotor also needs timely inspection. But, the newer models of cars nowadays often come without one. So if your car doesn't have one, then you don't need to bother about it.

• If your car is supported by manual transmission then you need to take some additional care. The clutch needs regular adjustment, unlike newer model cars that come fitted with an adjustable clutch.

• The brake, the oil and the transmission fluids need to be checked continuously, in fact on a weekly basis, if possible. For every 3000 miles you need to get an oil filter replacement which gives your car clean engine oil that helps in extending your car's engine's life.

So, I hope now you realize the importance of car care. Even if you are not a certified car mechanic, you can still take care of the little things in your car which will surely help in keeping your car in good condition for a long time. With proper maintenance your car can give you super performance. True, car problems might still persist but if put in some effort behind taking care of your car, you will have less things to worry about smooth functioning of your vehicle.


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You can do your own car maintenance. Learn some basics and you can fix your car on your own. It's more convenient and wise to repair your own car, it saves more money.

Source

Saturday, September 26, 2009

Rust Prevention and Repair

When rust starts to attack the metal in our vehicles, it threatens to destroy the entire body. Virtually anywhere you live, your vehicle is at risk of a rust attack. Humidity, heat, saltwater, salt applied to the roads, and rainwater are all contributors.

Rust begins very easily and is a very devious enemy, hiding under paints and coatings, having begun its damage and taking its toll long before it rears its ugly head and makes its presence known. It just takes the smallest of chips or nicks in your paint to begin this unsightly process that will weaken the structural integrity of the metal.
Rust Prevention Techniques

There are several prevention techniques that will protect your vehicle:

Wash the underside of the vehicle
This is important during the winter when salt is applied to the roads

Wax the body of the vehicle
This should be done at least twice a year

Wash the vehicle with appropriate products
Always use soaps, brushes, and methods that will not strip the protective wax off. You may think you're saving money by using dishwashing detergent but you are actually ruining your paint.

Maintain proper coolant-to-water ratio
Your owner's manual will tell you the ratio of coolant-to-water that your car requires (it's usually 1:1). Maintaining this ratio reduces the chance of corrosion in the cooling system.

If you use a car cover…
Use one that breathes preventing ground moisture from being trapped under the vehicle.

Apply Rust Bullet
Rust Bullet, when applied to the undercarriage, floor pan, trunk compartment, and other areas vulnerable to rust, protects your vehicle from corrosion.

How To Repair Rust Spots

Large rust spots often require the replacement of an entire body panel, but with a few basic tools and materials you can easily do most corrosion control yourself.

* Scrape off any loose or flaky corrosion or old paint
* Scuff the surface of any remaining old paint
* Apply approximately 6 mil dft Rust Bullet Automotive (usually two coats – 2-4 hours between coats)
* If necessary use a body filler to smooth out any pockets or dents and add additional coat of Rust Bullet
* Wet sand if necessary to achieve desired surface smoothness
* Topcoat with automotive paint of your choice
* Wax the entire vehicle


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Rusts in your car should be prevented, to keep it's shape and to avoid rust to destroy the entire body of your car.

Source of Free Car Repair Guide Manila

Thursday, September 24, 2009

Tools Needed For DIY Auto Repair

Owning your own car is a proud American tradition that has become a rite of passage for men and women alike. Of course, maintaining and repairing your own car is another important part of that same rite of passage and many even find deep satisfaction - as well as even deeper savings - by learning to do their own maintenance and repairs.

Some are intimidated by working on a car, but the truth is most maintenance can be simply and easily performed with a relatively basic set of tools and bit of determination. The tools on this list will allow you to perform 90% of tasks associated with do-it-yourself auto maintenance and repair:

Socket set

A decent socket set will save you countless hours of struggle and frustration. You don't have to break the bank, but be sure to get a standard set for your American car and a metric set for your foreign car.

Box wrench set

Box wrenches are the ones with a closed end and an open end. They're incredibly handy for bolts that can't be reached easily with a socket.

Screwdriver set

You'll need screwdrivers to remove all kinds of parts like a fan cowling, mud flap, or door panel. Be sure to get a set with both slotted and Philip's head variations.

Oil filter wrench

This is easy to overlook, but changing your own oil is one of the best ways to save money maintaining your car, and doing it without an oil filter wrench is ridiculously difficult.

Jack and jackstands

When you're under 2 tons of steel changing the oil, having a hydraulic jack to lift it and four solid jack stands holding it securely in place makes all the difference.

Mini crowbar and mini sledge

You'll be surprised how often you need a crowbar to leverage a pulley while you change a belt, or how often that sledge will help you loosen a rusted bolt.

Torque wrench

There are bolts on your car that need to be tightened to a certain level of torque. A torque wrench, which when set properly, literally breaks away at the right torque. Besides, you'll look cool using it.

Wire brush, utility knife, and pressure gauge

These are for small maintenance tasks such as cleaning your battery terminals, cutting hoses, and checking tire pressure regularly.


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Repairing your car will be more easy if you have the proper tools. Every part of the car needs different tools so it will be more easier if you have all these tools.

Source of Free Car Repair Guide Manila

Tuesday, September 22, 2009

How To Tint Your Own Car Windows

Tinting windows is not as easy as it looks. Even specialists find the process of tinting windows difficult.

Step 1- Know the Laws of Tinting Windows
First, get to know the laws in your state regarding tinted windows. Some states do now allow black out or limo tinting because it is too dark. Other states allow dark tinting windows in the back, but not in the front of a vehicle. Auto professionals will most likely be familiar with laws concerning tinting car windows in their area.

Step 2 – Take Special Care
Before applying any material for tinting windows, make sure the surface of the window is very clean. Take special care in looking for automotive caulking compounds or weather stripping that sticks out and make sure these areas are cleaned off. If there are any areas where there are cellular phones or satellite radio antenna components on the interior of the window, they will need to be worked around.

Step 3 – Cut and trace
Cut the tinting film into the shape of the inside of the window. You might want to cut the original shape on nylon paper and then lay it on top of the film. You can then trace and cut on the film when you are sure it is the exact fit you want for the window.

Step 4 – Placing the sheet inside
Put some soapy water on the inside of the window and then place the tint sheet on the window, pulling back about the first third of the sheet. Spray the window tint with adhesive window solution. You may need to use more solution around the edges, as it may peel up after you tint the windows. Try not to touch the film itself while you are tinting windows. Make sure the edges are lined up on all sides and there are no air bubbles to work out.

Step 5 – Pat it down
After you are sure the sheet is laid out perfectly, use a paper towel or a squeegee to pat down the solution. Buff any moisture away. You can use a hard tool is advised, but wrap it in a towel so there is no chance of ripping the film.



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Tinting your car is not that easy because it's very sensitive and you have to stick it very neatly so it won't crumple.

Source of Free Car Repair Guide Manila

Sunday, September 20, 2009

How to Fix a Broken Electric Car Window

Fixing a broken electric car window is sometimes a simple thing that’s easy to fix, but if not, it may require a trip to the shop. The switch might be stuck or a fuse might be blown. Here are a few tips on how to fix your electric car window, and possibly saving you a big mechanic’s bill.


Difficulty: Moderately Easy

Instructions


Step 1

Check the fuses. Most fuse boxes are under the dash to the left of the steering wheel. You’ll be able to identify the blown fuse as the one with the broken metallic strip in its center. Then, simply replace it with a new compatible fuse from the hardware store.

Step 2

Fiddle with the window switch. Push it on and off quickly. If the windows move slightly, the switch’s connections are simply gummed up. Try squirting a tiny bit of rubbing alcohol or contact lens cleaner under the switches to clean them.

Step 3

Check the wiring near the fuse box. Look for any loose connections and tighten them if necessary. If the windows start to move, you know where the faulty connection is and can tighten it with a small screwdriver or have it replaced.

Step 4

Check the electrical motor behind the door panel. Consult your owner’s manual for specific instructions. Once you find the electric motor, look for loose connections or other visible problems. Tighten any loose connections or replace the motor.

Step 5

Contact your dealership or local mechanic if these steps do not solve the problem.



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You can do it now. It's not that hard, just make sure you follow the instructions above and if you can't fix it then it will be the time to call for some help.

Source of Free Car Repair Guide Manila

Friday, September 18, 2009

How to Repair Your Car Scratch

The bad news: Your car has been keyed by some psychopath. The good? Our step-by-step DIY guide walks you through diagnosing and repairing the dreaded car scratch.

Your vintage sports car deserves the best treatment, which is why you always park it in the farthest, emptiest reaches of the lot, as far as you can get from the possibility of a casual door ding perpetrated by a careless shopper. You even park it straddling two spaces, to protect its tender flanks.

To your horror, a quick trip into the department store, punctuated by two long hikes across an empty expanse of lot (one into the store and a second back to the car), ends in your worst nightmare. Your car has been keyed by some psychopath, who even had the temerity to write you a rude note about the inappropriateness of your parking habits.

Anatomy of a Scratch

All scratches are not the same. Some “scratches” may not even be scratches at all. You find these when a painted car bumper or wooden post, or the rubber bumper on a shopping cart, rubs up against the body. The object doing the rubbing may be softer than the paint. Instead of scratching the car, it deposits material on the paint surface — a mark that is actually raised above the paint, not gouged into it.

If the object is harder than the paint, guess where the material gets transferred? From your car to the shopping cart, leaving paint missing. Some scratches can be rescued, while others can’t.

But many marks simply “scratch the surface,” as it were. The offending object gouges the clearcoat and even some of the base color, while leaving the primer and metal unscathed. When there’s still color at the bottom of the scratch it may be possible to remove it with some careful sanding, buffing and waxing.

Fixing Scratches

You don’t need fancy tools to distinguish a scratch from a mark. A fingernail drawn over the surface at 90 degrees to the defect will tell you if it’s gouged into the paint or sitting on top of it. If it’s a mark that appears to be from rubber, plastic or even other paint, it may come off easily with an aerosol tar or adhesive remover. Stubborn marks often can be removed with acetone or lacquer thinner on a soft rag. If the mark is still there after using one of these solvents, try hand rubbing or polishing compound. First, clean the area with soap and water, then spread rubbing compound on the mark and rub the area in a circular motion until the mark disappears. Once it’s gone, switch to a back-and-forth motion to remove circular buffing marks. Buff the area with a clean cloth to remove rubbing compound. Then, using a fresh pad, clean the area with polishing compound to remove the fine scratches left by the rubbing compound. Finish by sealing the surface with a good car wax.

If the defect is a scratch, determine if it extends below the surface of the paint and into the primer. Sometimes one end of the scratch looks fine but the other end gets deeper and deeper until it breaks through into the primer and the metal underneath. How much of that scratch is below the color? If it’s a small portion of the entire scratch, you may want to repair what you can, and just try to ignore the rest until you’re prepared to repaint the panel.

Modern cars are almost always clearcoated over the color layer of the paint. This is done to provide a shinier finish, as well as to prevent ultraviolet light from fading the pigment underneath it.

Scratches in clearcoat can similarly be sanded out. However, if you sand completely through the clear into the color underneath, you have to respray the clear on that panel. That’s still easier than trying to match the color of the original paint, spraying the panel and then clear­coating over it. If the scratch goes into the primer, you’ll be forced do exactly that.

Nitty-Gritty Time

To repair a scratch, start by washing the panel with soapy water and then drying it thoroughly. To fix the scratch you won’t really be removing it at all. Rather, you’ll be sanding down the paint surrounding the damaged area until they are both at the same level. As you might guess, the goal is to sand down to the level of the scratch without sanding through to the next layer.

To make sure you don’t go too far, rub a material into the scratch that contrasts with the paint color. In the case of our red Porsche photo car, we used black shoe polish. If the car is a dark color, white shoe polish, Wite-Out or another light-colored material will work. Once the contrasting color is in the scratch, sand remaining material from the paint surface.

The key to sanding safely is to use an ultrafine 2000- to 3000-grit wet/dry sandpaper, which is available at auto parts stores where body shop supplies are sold. Place the paper on a rubber sanding block or a wood block, then dip it in a bowl of cold water. Add two or three drops of liquid dish detergent to make the water more slippery and to improve cutting action. Sand the scratch area using light, short strokes at alternating 60-degree angles to the scratch. Move up and down the length of the scratch, stopping frequently to rinse the paper in the water. The goal is to work slowly and lightly until you see the contrasting mark disappear.

Once it is gone, dry the sanded area thoroughly and inspect it for any signs of the scratch. If you have clearcoat paint and the sanding water shows any sign of color, you’ll have to respray the clear. If you have conventional (nonclearcoat) enamel or lacquer, the water will show plenty of color. Once the scratch is gone — and you haven’t sanded down to the next layer — buff the area with rubbing compound. A power buffer works fast, but you can do a fine job on smaller areas with no more than a terry cloth washcloth and a bottle of compound. Buff in a circular motion, and lift up the haze with a terry cloth towel.

When the sandpaper scratches are gone, use a soft cloth to remove any of the relatively coarse compound. You may need to wash the area with water. Replace the rubbing-compound pad on the machine with a foam polishing-compound pad, and buff the entire area with very fine compound or swirl mark eliminator. Once the polishing is done, inspect the area, then seal the paint with car wax.

Step-By-Step













1. Shoe polish can be used to visualize the scratches.













2. Wipe the shoe polish over the panel. This fills the scratches with polish.













3. Block sand the panel with 2000-grit wet/dry sandpaper and plenty of water. Sand until the shoe polish disappears.













4. Polish out the sanding scratches with rubbing compound.













5. A polishing wheel makes short work of bringing the shine back. An oscillating polisher is less aggressive than this rotary polisher. Don't buff through the paint into the next layer, especially on high-crown or sharp edges.













6. Finish with light hand buffing to remove the last of the compound. Follow with car wax.



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It's not that hard to remove scratches in your car. You just need shoe polish, sand paper, rubbing compound, polishing wheel and some cloth.

Source of Free Car Repair Guide Manila

Wednesday, September 16, 2009

Windshield Chip Repair

Crack Down on Rock Divets

According to professional repairers, approximately 75 percent of damaged windshields can be repaired instead of replaced. This is encouraging news, especially when considering that any windshield damage that obstructs the driver's view is illegal.

For anyone whose windshield has doubled as a backstop for rocks and debris that fly off of flatbed trucks, prompt action is critical. Over time, grit accumulates in the windshield's damaged area, and temperature fluctuations can make the marred portion grow.

Do-it-yourself systems designed to fill windshield nicks are available from several companies. The two styles of kits are an inexpensive syringe (about $8) and a more professional-type bridge system (around $17).

In general, windshield-repair kits are recommended for crackless pits of up to an inch in diameter ‹ and they aren't intended for 3stars,2 3spiders2 or any type of cracks. Their actual resin repair compound is formulated to have the same refractive characteristics as OE laminated glass, the goal being to make the repair virtually undetectable.

The how-to photos here are of the syringe-type repair kit available at most auto parts stores. It's easy to use ‹ the one-component chemical doesn't require mixing or heat to cure, just sunlight. (However, the chemical does contain an acid that shouldn't contact skin, eyes or paint.)

Our demonstration windshield here had the right type of pit damage, but the carnage was more than a year old. The result is that the repair compound didn't adhere well. Regardless, this is a worthwhile endeavor: The job only takes a few minutes, and the kits can be purchased either at your local parts store or by mail order.




Step 1
Syringe-style repair kits (A) contain enough resin compound to fix one windshield chip. They mount to the glass with an adhesive disc and a plastic pedestal. Bridge-type kits (B) are more expensive but can be reused with resin refills.





Step 2
Clean the damaged area with glass cleaner, and allow it to dry completely. Then put a rag or towel below the damage to keep any spilled repair compound from contacting paint.






Step 3
For syringe-style repairs, punch out the hole in the adhesive disc, peel the backing off of one side of the disc and press it onto the glass. Center the damage in the disc's hole and point the disc's tab upward.





Step 4
Peel the backing off of the disc's top side and press on the pedestal, aligning the tabs at the top.







Step 5
Uncap the syringe and insert it in the pedestal, twisting till the syringe is firmly seated. Then pull the plunger upward to suck air from the damaged area, hold momentarily and let go to force the repair compound into the damage. Repeat the plunging process 10 times.




Step 6
The sun's ultraviolet rays cure the repair compound in approximately 30 minutes. Check from inside the vehicle for air bubbles and repeat the plunging sequence if necessary. To finish the job, remove the syringe, cut off the pedestal and disc with a blade and clean up any excess compound.



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Now you can fix the crack on your windshield by yourself. Follow the instructions above and you'll surely have satisfying results.

Source of Free Car Repair Guide Manila

Monday, September 14, 2009

How to Maintain and Repair The Sunroof of Your Car

Sometimes the sunroof of your car can get stuck and won’t open. This is due to rust and build up from over the years. So to solve that problem, just follow the steps below to continue.

Instructions

Step 1

Get a bottle of rubbing alcohol. Be careful not to sniff this product as it is toxic. It’s safe for your hands, so don’t worry about your hands.

Step 2

Soak a towel with the rubbing alcohol. Wipe down the rails of the sun roof. This is where all the rust and build up material is at. After you have done one side, do the other side.

Step 3

Get some white lithium grease and grease down the rails. Put enough to lubricate but not trickle.

Step 4

Open and close the sun roof a couple of times to work the grease in. It should now be very smooth. So that’s about it. Lube the rails often to keep the sun roof from sticking.



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Taking good care of your car is important to avoid serious damages. You can do it on your own. Sunroof should be well protected because water can get into your car. So, before it happens make sure you take good care of it.

Resource of Free Car Repair Guide Manila

Saturday, September 12, 2009

Fluid Investigator - 007

by Lauren Fix, The Car Coach®


Do you have a fluid leak under your car or truck? Here’s a simple way to be your own private investigator. If you’re not sure whether you are losing oil, transmission fluid, coolant or brake fluid, here is a simple, but effective method for finding who or what caused it!

Place an old sheet or large piece of white cardboard under the vehicle overnight. In the morning you will have your answer. Each fluid is a different color to help you diagnose the answers.

If the leaks have the following color, you have a good indication of what fluid you are leaking.

Bright Green: radiator coolant, this is also very slippery to the touch.

Light or Dark Brown: if you change the oil often it will be a light brown, if not the fluid will be a darker brown. Make sure to change your engine oil every 3-5000 miles.

Bright Blue: windshield washer fluid. (Winter washer fluids can be orange, pink or yellow).

Light Brown: if there is also a strong odor of rotten eggs, this is 90 weight or gear lube. It may be leaking from the rear axle center section or the manual transmission.

Red Fluid: Automatic transmission fluid or power steering fluid. Note where the fluid is coming from – it could be long life coolant

Clear: Power steering fluid or water from the condenser on the A/C unit.

Light Yellow: Brake fluid is light yellow when new as it absorbs water the fluid becomes a dark muddy brown. Brake fluid absorbs 2% water over a one year period under normal braking conditions. This is a very important fluid and should be changed every other year.

Amber: Gasoline, but there will be a distinct odor.

The location of the leak could also be a dead giveaway. Being a good sleuth make it obvious to conclude that there will not likely be an anti-freeze leak in the back of the vehicle.

The government tints fluids different colors for safety reasons. This will assist you during maintenance schedules too.

Keep a sharp eye on your vehicle; leaks can be frustrating and even dangerous. If you’re unsure go to a professional certified mechanic and ask for help. Even James Bond will ask for help at times.


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Now you can find where the fluids under your car come from. You can now determine the next step you should do. This is great! you're a true mechanic now!

Resource of Free Car Repair Guide Manila

Thursday, September 10, 2009

Repair a Dent in Your Car

By B. E. Conrad

There are few things that can ruin the good looks of a car quite as fast as an unexpected dent or ding. Whether the dent originated from a runaway shopping cart at the supermarket or from a careless driver on the freeway, having a dented car is certainly no fun, and repairing those dents at the local body shop can be very expensive indeed.

Fortunately for drivers with dented cars and dented wallets, there are some methods you can use to remove those inevitable dents, dings and scrapes with little out of pocket costs. While not all dents and dings will respond to the do-it-yourself approach, it is certainly worth a try, and it may end up saving you a great deal of money.

There are a number of things you will need in order to attempt these do-it-yourself dent repairs. There are a number of dent repair kits on the market, and many of these kits include everything you need to remove and repair small dents quickly and easily. Many of these kits use suction cups and similar implements, and thus have the advantage of eliminating the need to drill holes in the finish to remove a dent.

Before getting started, be sure to borrow or purchase a dent pulling kit or dent pulling tool, along with a dolly, which is a specially designed tool made for flattening and reshaping metal. A metalworking hammer will be necessary as well.

The steps needed to complete the dent reapir are as follows:

1. Locate the center of the dent, and drill a hole in the dent with a 1/8" drill bit. Alternatively, you can use a hot glue gun to glue a plastic adapter to the center of the dent. These plastic adapters and glue guns are included in many dent removal kits.

2. Thread the dent pulling tool into the newly dilled hole, or attach the dent pulling tool to the plastic circle that is glued on the dent. After the dent pulling tool is in palce, pull on it to flatten the dent or pull it out.

3. Carefully hammer the front of the dent using the metalworking hammer, while at the same time holding the dolly firmly against the back of the dent. It may be necessary to go underneath the car, or to open the trunk or hood of the car, in order to reach the back of the dent.

4. Use a medium grit disk mounted on a drill to grind the paint down to the bare metal, extending the area out at least one inch around the dent itself. Then fill the entire area with a good quality body filler.

5. Allow the body filler to dry completely, then carefully sand the area with sandpaper which has been wrapped around a block of wood. When sanding, begin with a 36-grit sandpaper and work up to a 120-grit sandpaper.

6. Use a spray primer to prime the area, being sure to use a primer specially designed for automotive use. Six coats of primer should be used, allowing each coat of primer to dry completely before applying the next coat.

7. Sand the primer using a 600-grit wet and dry sandpaper. This will help to remove any scratches. The area should then be touched up with a matching automotive paint. If the paint is not smooth, resand and repaint the area until you have a smooth surface.


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It's not that hard! You can do it by yourself and the good news about it is you save your money. Isn't it great. Learning to fix your own car is easy. You can fix the dent in your car now.

Resource of Free Car Repair Guide Manila

Tuesday, September 8, 2009

Should You Fix It Yourself?

Don't be afraid to tackle repairs, but know your limitations.

By Matthew Wright, About.com


Let's get something on the table. This About.com Guide Site is all about Automotive Empowerment, which means that we are here to help you repair and maintain your car to the best of your abilities. A 5-minute read can prepare you to change your own air filter, but it will take a little more experience to tackle a clutch replacement. Our motto is "You Can Do It!" Knowing exactly when you can do it is key to your success as an empowered auto owner.

So how do you know when you're ready to tackle a specific repair? Nobody knows better than you do. Ask yourself a few questions:

* Are you familiar with all of the necessary tools for the job?
* Do you have enough available time to complete the repair?
* If the repair requires another person, do you have somebody who will help you out?

As long as you're realistic, you can tackle any repair or maintenance job you set out to make. Knowing your limitations, however, will keep you out of trouble. There is no worse feeling than seeing the sun set on a Sunday evening while your car lies in pieces in the driveway, knowing that you have to figure out how to get to work Monday morning. As you step off the bus in front of the office, the mail clerk will be laughing as he blows by in his lowered Civic. Sure, you're his boss, but he's laughing extra hard on the inside.


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Yes, That's very true! Know your limitations to avoid huge expenses in repairing your car and to avoid making it worse. You should know what you are doing. If you're familiar with it do it, and if not you can seek help then learn how to do it, so, next time when it happened again you can do it on your own.

Resources on Free Car Repair Guide Manila

Sunday, September 6, 2009

How To Replace Your Turn Signal Relay

By Matthew Wright, About.com

Is Your Turn Signal Relay Bad, and Does It Need Replacing?
"Keep Your Signals Blinking"

Turn Signals Are An Important Safety Feature

Turn signals are one of the easiest systems in your car to troubleshoot, well usually they are. Your signal flashers either work or they don't. It's kind of like being pregnant - there's no such thing as "sort of." Troubleshooting your turn signals isn't tough. If your turn signals have stopped working, it'll be doing one of these things: blinking rapidly, coming on without blinking, or nothing at all. The good news is that all of these symptoms point to two possible issues, a bad turn signal relay or a dead bulb. If the signal blinks really fast, you have a bulb out on that side. If it doesn't come on at all, or doesn't blink, you'll need to replace your turn signal relay. Your turn signal relay is easy to replace, and they are almost never expensive.

If your turn signals aren't doing the job, and you're ready to replace your turn signal relay, read on.

*Some vehicles have separate flasher relays for turn signals and hazard lights. Be sure to check both systems while you're thinking about signal relays. Hazard lights can be very important.

Replacing the Turn Signal Relay
"Your flasher relay is easily accessible."

Carefully remove and replace the turn signal relay.
photo by Matt Wright, 2007

If you've determined that you need to replace your turn signal relay, you're in luck -- it's easy! In fact, it's one of the easiest repair you'll ever do.

1. Locate your relay cluster. You can find this in your car's owner's manual.
2. Locate the turn signal relay. This should also be in your owner's manual. If it's not, you can consult a service manual for your car.
3. Once you can see your relays, remove the old turn signal flasher relay and replace it with the new one. Don't worry about installing it incorrectly, it will only go in one way, the right way.

That's it! You're back to blinking, and back to being a safe car on the road.


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Oh! It's easy. You can repair your own car signals in just minutes. Now you can be safe driving espeacially at night. Drive Safely!

Resources of Free Car Repair Guide Manila

Friday, September 4, 2009

My engine has an electric cooling fan. But the fan doesn't run all the time. Is that normal?

Yes. The cooling fan is only needed when engine temperature rises above a predetermined level -- or when there is an increased load placed on the cooling system (as when running your air conditioner). The rest of the time, running the fan would be a waste of electrical energy so it is turned off.

Electric cooling fans are found on most front-wheel drive vehicles with transverse mounted engines as well as many late model rear-wheel drive vehicles. Electric fans are used on FWD cars because the fan doesn't require a belt drive and can be mounted independent of the engine's location. What's more, electric fans require less power to operate (for improved fuel economy and performance), they're quieter, and they allow more precise control over cooling.

By comparison, a mechanical belt-driven fan can require anywhere from 5 to 15 horsepower depending on engine speed and the size of the fan. Even with a fan clutch to reduce the drag at higher speeds, it's still a lot of wasted power.
Fan Operation

At highway speeds, there is usually enough airflow through the radiator that a fan isn't needed. So the fan usually only operates when the vehicle is sitting in traffic or driving at slower speeds.

On older applications, the electric fan is controlled by a temperature switch located in the radiator or engine. When the temperature of the coolant exceeds the switch's rating (typically 195 to 235 degrees F), the switch closes and energizes a relay that supplies voltage to run the fan. The fan then continues to run until the coolant temperature drops back below the opening point of the switch. Most electric fans are also wired to come on when the A/C is on. Many vehicles also have a separate fan for the A/C condenser (dual fan systems). One or both fans come on when the A/C is on.

In newer vehicles with computerized engine controls, fan operation is regulated by the engine control module. Input from the coolant sensor, and in many cases the vehicle speed sensor too, is used to determine when the fan needs to be on.

CAUTION: Many electric fans are wired to come on anytime the engine is above a certain temperature, regardless of whether the engine is running or not. This means the fan may come on after the engine has been shut off. So keep your fingers away from the fan at all times unless the battery or fan motor wires have been disconnected.
Checking The Fan

Four things can prevent a fan from coming on when it should: a bad temperature switch or coolant sensor (or problem in the switch or sensor wiring circuit); a bad fan relay; a wiring problem (blown fuse, loose or corroded connector, shorts, opens, etc.); or a failure of the fan motor itself. Only the latter would require replacing the fan motor.

One way to check the operation of the fan motor is to jump it directly to the battery. If it spins, the motor is good, and the problem is elsewhere in the wiring or control circuit. Another check is to test for voltage with a voltmeter or test light at the fan's wiring connector. There should be voltage when the engine is hot and when the A/C is on.


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There are things you can do by yourself especially in repairing your car. You can save money by learning how to check and fix your car all by yourself. Follow the instructions in this car repair guide and you'll learn more.

Resources of Car Repair Guide Manila

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