Short Stroke Conversion for toyota

Moto-P's Addendum... 

WHY DO WE HAVE TO DO THIS?  ITS A PAIN!!??

The following is to address the common question of "why" we need to cut (shorten) the strut case for using TRD short stroke.  For those who understand it, you can skip this section and get to work...

The strut case on a McPherson strut assembly like the system used on the front of the AE86 (and most other Corollas) are designed operate at a certain vehicle suspension height.  Therefore the shock stroke range, compression and rebound, is optimized to the use of standard OEM height strut.  The normal stroke range of the AE86 is 186 mm.  Now, by using the TRD short stroke "race" strut, the overall suspension travel is reduced to 165 mm, a reduction of 21mm.  Add to this the height change by using the short race springs is approximately 30 to 60 mm, depending on your preferred height adjustment of the coil over unit.  By installing this in a standard length case will result in a optimum stoke range be vastly out of position.  Moreover, the strut case will hit the top mount and prevent the full stroke from occurring, and the front suspension will be left with virtually no stroke on the compression side. 

Reason having been explained TRD's decision was to make the strut cartridge 20mm shorter than necessary to provide transferability to other models such as KP61 and AE92.  This design translates to the TRD short stroke unit being 62 mm shorter than comparable OEM strut cartridge. (This may vary by model and other comparable shocks such as the Tokico HTS, which are 60 mm shorter)  In any case, we must do out subtraction here...  So to put a TRD short stroke cartridge into a 40 mm cut strut case, we must also use a spacer at the bottom of the cartridge to place the shock into the optimum stroke location, and in this case the spacer would be 62 mm - 40mm = 22mm, or 22 mm of spacer must be provided to lock the cartridge into correct location.

By careful calculations, you will provide the designed outcome for the TRD short stroke shocks which are in balance with the rear short stroke spring/ shock combination.  The rear system is not a height adjustable design, so front strut assembly must be matched to compensate...and this is where the coil-over conversion becomes handy in taking up slight construction error and to fine tune the fore-aft distribution of weight and overall height.

Finally, I'd like to add that fact that....  the suspension in any automobile is a critical part that supports the car and is holding the tire in place.  As you can imagine, it is VERY dangerous to have these parts fail, even when the car is stationary...  So please use HUGE caution when working with these items and during the design process.  Its not a bad idea to go to a junk yard to buy spare set of parts just to practice on, or even to use as spares if there are any mistakes or faults in the final project.  Its much more comforting and easy to do so, rather than hunting around desperately for parts in a hurry.

OK, and last item here is a few drawing I had done for some BBS questions in the past...please ignore the fact that the drawing is rather crude, it's for guiding you with pictures to get a rough mental picture of purpose and concept of making the conversion...of course the pictures are not to scale so don't be alarmed if your strut case does not look this way...  No, the cartridge is not warped and do not have eyes...(^^)

(Click Photo to enlarge)

---

Now here's the last advice,

Since you will be taking your suspension apart down to the last nut, I do suggest that you get all your other modifications ready to install at this time.  For example the following things can be added as well to make life easier, so as not to repeat the disassembly...

source: http://www.club4ag.com/faq_and_tech_pages/Short%20Stroke%20Conversion.htm

this conversion is for Toyota ae86 setup front suspension and fits some other vehicle with old model Toyota. 

How to Fix Your Car's Air Conditioner

Have you been sweltering in your car because of a broken air conditioner? Here's a short guide to how air conditioning (AC) works, why it might not work, and what you can do about it.

LEGAL WARNING! - Checking for refrigerant by poking something in the fitting and looking for venting is ILLEGAL as it releases refrigerant into the atmosphere. (Please dont do this with R-12 especially!) Second, it's also ILLEGAL to put more refrigerant into a system known to leak (because, again, youre letting it vent to the atmosphere, albeit more slowly). [Note: The EPA web site disagrees with this statement.]
This is why you may not find a repair facility that will simply top you off, if they suspect that you need to repair a leak first. If you repaired the leaks and failed components yourself, it is legal to recharge the system with 134 without a license, but not R-12. (However, getting a license to handle R-12 is easy online, and runs about $20.)

Steps

   1.
     
      Realize that auto AC is basically a refrigerator in a weird layout. It's designed to move heat from one place (the inside of your car) to some other place (the outdoors). While a complete discussion of every specific model and component is well outside the scope of this article, this should give you a start on figuring out what the problem might be and either fixing it yourself or talking intelligently to someone you can pay to fix it.

    2.
     
      Become familiar with the major components to auto air conditioning:

          * the compressor, which compresses and circulates the refrigerant in the system
          * the refrigerant, (on modern cars, usually a substance called R-134a older cars have r-12 freon which is becoming increasingly more expensive and hard to find, and also requires a license to handle) which carries the heat
          * the condenser, which changes the phase of the refrigerant and expels heat removed from the car
          * the expansion valve (or orifice tube in some vehicles), which is somewhat of a nozzle and functions to simultaneously drop the pressure of the refrigerant liquid, meter its flow, and atomize it
          * the evaporator, which transfers heat to the refrigerant from the air blown across it, cooling your car
          * the receiver/dryer, which functions as a filter for the refrigerant/oil, removing moisture and other contaminants
   3.
     
      Understand the air conditioning process: The compressor puts the refrigerant under pressure and sends it to the condensing coils. In your car, these coils are generally in front of the radiator. Compressing a gas makes it quite hot. In the condenser, this added heat and the heat the refrigerant picked up in the evaporator is expelled to the air flowing across it from outside the car. When the refrigerant is cooled to its saturation temperature, it will change phase from a gas back into a liquid (this gives off a bundle of heat known as the "latent heat of vaporization"). The liquid then passes through the expansion valve to the evaporator, the coils inside of your car, where it loses pressure that was added to it in the compressor. This causes some of the liquid to change to a low-pressure gas as it cools the remaining liquid. This two-phase mixture enters the evaporator, and the liquid portion of the refrigerant absorbs the heat from the air across the coil and evaporates. Your car's blower circulates air across the cold evaporator and into the interior. The refrigerant goes back through the cycle again and again.
   4.
     
      Check to see if all the R-134a leaks out (meaning there's nothing in the loop to carry away heat). Leaks are easy to spot but not easy to fix without pulling things apart. Most auto-supply stores carry a fluorescent dye that can be added to the system to check for leaks, and it will have instructions for use on the can. If there's a bad enough leak, the system will have no pressure in it at all. Find the lowside value and with a gauge check the PSI level. DO NOT use anything else to poke in the value to see if it will come out, THIS IS ILLEGAL (its called venting).
   5.
     
      Make sure the compressor is turning. Start the car, turn on the AC and look under the hood. The AC compressor is generally a pump-like thing off to one side with large rubber and steel hoses going to it. It will not have a filler cap on it, but will often have one or two things that look like the valve stems on a bike tire. The pulley on the front of the compressor exists as an outer pulley and an inner hub which turns when an electric clutch is engaged. If the AC is on and the blower is on, but the center of the pulley is not turning, then the compressor's clutch is not engaging. This could be a bad fuse, a wiring problem, a broken AC switch in your dash, or the system could be low on refrigerant (most systems have a low-pressure safety cutout that will disable the compressor if there isn't enough refrigerant in the system).
   6.
     
      Look for other things that can go wrong: bad switches, bad fuses, broken wires, broken fan belt (preventing the pump from turning), or seal failure inside the compressor.
   7.
     
      Feel for any cooling at all. If the system cools, but not much, it could just be low pressure and you can top up the refrigerant. Most auto-supply stores will have a kit to refill a system, complete with instructions. Do not overfill! Adding more than the recommended amount of refrigerant will NOT improve performance but actually will decrease performance. In fact, the more expensive automated equipment found at nicer shops actually monitors cooling performance in real-time as it adds refrigerant. When the performance begins to decrease it removes refrigerant until the performance peaks again.




------------------
Aircon is very important especially to tropical countries. Always make sure that you check up your car's aircon maybe every 6 months to avoid hassles.

Source